Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
For this island, famed for so glorious an industry, was beloved and
honoured by the noblest of Venetian names, Trifone Gabriele and Pietro
Bembo and Andrea Navagero. Here Navagero founded one of the first
botanic gardens of Europe--“a terrestrial paradise, a place of nymphs
and demigods”; here Gabriele wandered for hours under the thick vine
pergola walled with jessamine against the sun. And it was not only as
a temporary pleasure-ground that they loved Murano: they clung to it
as their resting-place in death. Bernardo Giustiniani desired to be
buried by his palace, at the foot of Ponte Lungo, and Andrea Navagero
in the church of San Martino in the same quarter where his house was
built. Murano was honoured by at least one royal guest. It was here
that Henry III of France, on his passage through Venice from Polonia,
was given his first lodging, and the palace which witnessed the first
transports of this rapturous monarch, the palace of Bartolomeo Capello,
still exists, close beside the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli, at
the extreme western point of the city. It would thus form the most
convenient landing-place, besides commanding a view of extreme beauty;
to the left, the fine torrent-like sweep of the chief canal, with the
noble Cà da Mula a little lower on the opposite bank and its gardens
immediately over the water; Venice filling the horizon clear across
the lagoon, where the south curve of Murano ends to-day in a meadow
of rough grass and fragrant herbs; to the right the Convent of the
Angeli, leading on the eye across the lagoon to the mainland and the
distant mountains beyond. Traces of fresco remain on the outer walls
of the palazzo, and the upper hall still stretches through the whole
breadth of the house. It is on the balcony of this central hall that
Henry must have stood when he appeared before dinner to gratify the
crowds on the fondamenta and in the boats below. The view of Venice in
the evening light is exquisitely lovely, with the lagoon spread like a
mirror to reflect the delicate opaline of the sunset sky. In this hall
hung with cloth of gold and cremosine, and perhaps with the colours of
Veronese, looking over a paradise of gardens and water to the immortal
city, Henry kept his court, received the legates from the Pope and said
a thousand graceful things about His Holiness, rejoiced the natives by
his noble bearing, his perfumed gloves, his frank pleasure in their
tribute, his decision to go on foot to the Angeli to morning Mass.
Thus was he initiated to the magical city and its enchantments by
that wise providence of the Venetians, who made their islands always
stepping-stones, outer courts of the central shrine, where their
pilgrim must pause awhile to shake the dust of the mainland off his
feet, that the spell might permeate his being and fill his senses with
desire.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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