Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
Soon after Orseolo’s return from this campaign, Venice, unknown to
herself, was to receive the homage of one of the emperors she had made
it her business to propitiate. There is something that stirs the
imagination in this secret visit of Otho III to the Doge. According
to the ingenuous account of John the Deacon, Venetian ambassador at
the Emperor’s court, it was merely one of those visits of princely
compliment which the age knew so well how to contrive, and loved
so well to recount--a visit in disguise for humility or greater
freedom, like that of St. Louis to Brother Giles at Perugia, where
host and guest embrace in fellowship too deep for words. The Emperor,
John the Deacon tells us, was overcome with admiration of Orseolo’s
achievements in Dalmatia, and filled with longing to see so great a
man, and the chronicler was despatched to Venice to arrange a meeting.
The Doge, while acknowledging the compliment of Otho’s message, could
not believe in its reality, and consequently kept his own counsel
about it--“tacitus sibi in corde servabat.” However, when Otho on his
travels had come down to Ravenna for Lent, John the Deacon was again
despatched, and this time from Doge to Emperor.
It was ultimately arranged that after the Easter celebration Otho with
a handful of followers should repair, under pretext of a “spring-cure,”
to the abbey of Santa Maria in the isle of Pomposa at the mouth of the
Po. He pretended to be taking up his quarters here for several days,
but at nightfall he secretly embarked in a small boat prepared by John
the Deacon, and set sail with him and six followers for Venice. All
that night and all the following day the little boat battled with the
tempest, and the storm was still unabated the next evening, when it put
in at the island of San Servolo and found itself harboured at last in
the waters of St. Mark. Venice knew nothing of this arrival; her royal
guest had taken her unawares, and her waterways had prepared him no
welcome. We may picture the anxiety of Orseolo, alone with the secret
of his expected guest, on the island of San Servolo. The journey may
well have been perilous for so small a boat even within the sheltering
wall of the Lido, and we may imagine his relief when it could at last
be descried beating towards the island through the tempestuous waters
of the lagoon. In impenetrable night, concealed from one another’s eyes
by the thick darkness, Emperor and Doge embraced. Otho was invited to
rest for an hour or two at the convent of San Zaccaria, but he repaired
before dawn to the Ducal Palace and the lodging made ready for him in
the eastern tower. There is a fascination in attempting to imagine the
two sovereigns moving amid the shadows of Venetian night, in thinking
of the Emperor watching from the vantage of his tower for daybreak
over the city. There are wonders to be seen from this eastern aspect,
but after the discomfort of his voyage to Venice the royal captive
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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