Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
in supplies, and the people quiet and peace-loving.” Secure among the
lagoons, Venice is aloof from the disturbances of the mainland cities,
and though her inhabitants are proved warriors they are peaceable
citizens. Many of the glories of Gentile Bellini’s _Procession of
the Cross_ would be present in the procession in which the Doge
and the magnates of Venice formally conducted Alexander III to the
city--patriarch, bishops, clergy, and finally the Pope himself, all in
their festival robes. Ecclesiastical and secular princes of Germany,
France, England, Spain, Hungary and the whole of Italy were crowding
to Venice. The occasion gave scope for her fascinations, and they were
exerted. No opportunity for display was neglected; ceremony was heaped
upon ceremony.
For over a fortnight Venice was the centre of correspondence daily
renewed between Emperor and Pope, of embassies hastening to and fro,
of endless postponements and uncertainties. The Pope retires for a
few days to Ferrara; then he is back again to be received as before.
But Venice, the indomitable, is secure of her will, and preparations
for the coming of the Emperor are growing apace. In July the Doge’s
son is despatched to meet the royal guest at Ravenna and conduct him
to Venice by way of Chioggia. No tempests disturbed his arrival. He
was conducted in triumph up the lagoon by the galleys of “honest men”
and Cardinals who had gone forth to Chioggia to meet him. Slowly the
islands of the Lido would unfold themselves to his eyes, Pellestrina
in shining curves, Malamocco with its long reaches of bare shore
and reeds. The group clustered round Venice itself--San Servolo, La
Grazia, San Lazzaro, Poveglia--would be green and smiling then, living
islands, not desolated as now for the most part by magazine or asylum.
San Nicolo del Lido welcomed the guest, and he was borne thence on the
ducal boat to the city and landed at the Riva. Through the acclamations
of an “unheard-of multitude” his way was made to San Marco, where the
Pope in all his robes, amid a throng of gorgeous ecclesiastics and
laymen, was waiting on the threshold. As he passed out of the brilliant
and garish day into the solemn mosaiced glory of San Marco and moved to
the high altar between Pope and Doge singing a Te Deum, “while all gave
thanks to God, rejoicing and exulting and weeping,” even an emperor and
a Barbarossa may well have surrendered his pride. Even we, spectators
removed by time, find ourselves exalted on the tide of colour and of
sound, and crying to the Venetians, with the strangers who thronged in
their streets, “Blessed are ye, that so great a peace has been able
to be established in the midst of you! This shall be a memorial to
your name for ever.” Peace was secured and Venice had accomplished
her task. She had devoted the subtleties of her statecraft to its
performance, but perhaps the splendour of this hour in San Marco was
her crowning achievement. She asked the recognition of a Pope, and she
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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