Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
As the water is still rising and the Ponte di Canonica will not allow
room to pass, we must move along the shining waters of San Marco till
we find a more hospitable waterway. With difficulty we get under the
Ponte del Sepolcro and thence down the Rio della Pietà in which,
at the distance of a few strokes, we may land if we will at a low
sotto-portico leading to San Giovanni in Bragora, where Cima’s noble
picture, _The Baptism of Christ_, is imprisoned behind a stifling
modern altar which makes it impossible to study the composition as a
whole. A little farther, passing a fine ogival palace on our right,
we halt before a plastered barocco house with remnants of Byzantine
window-posts on an upper story. But our chief interest lies this time
in the basement, in a low, narrow arch, the crowns of whose pillars,
richly worked in marmo greco with griffins and lions, are, even in
time of normal tides, little above the level of the water, though
probably the arch once rested on pillars not less than ten feet high.
This buried arch is eloquent of the rising of the waters on Venice.
It arrests us by the beauty of its workmanship; but it is one of many
that we must pass on each canal, though not all have placidly accepted
submergence; many have kept above the water by accepting the addition
of a capital or crown. Elsewhere there are notable examples of this
patchwork of which Venice never is ashamed and which has produced
much in her of the greatest interest. In the Salizzada di San Lio, in
the sestiere of San Giustina, is a pillar, supporting one side of a
sotto-portico, in which a whole page of Venetian history is comprised.
Looking into it, we see that it is composed of two distinct portions,
that it has in fact two capitals--a capital of the early Renaissance
superimposed on a Byzantine column which retains its own. They stand
happily united, these children of two ages, but we naturally ask
ourselves the reason of their juncture, and the answer is that the
Byzantine pillar was once sufficient to itself; it had no need of a
crown to complete its dignity or service. No weight of years has shrunk
it to these dwarfed proportions. It is the rising of earth from below,
not pressure from above, which has reduced it. The soil of Venice has
been raised, inch by inch and foot by foot, in defence against her
submergence. Many basements have become uninhabitable, and Galliccioli
records that in the church of SS. Vito e Modesta an ancient pavement
was discovered eight feet below the existing one, while in SS. Simone
e Giuda three levels were found one above another. In San Marco a
confessional similar to that still at Torcello, after having been lost
sight of for several centuries, was found three feet below the soil and
one and a half feet below the ordinary level of the water. Our pillar,
therefore, which at one time planted its foot firmly on the ground, has
been gradually buried alive, and to preserve the serviceableness, as
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