Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
well as the dignity of the portico--in fact, to secure its existence
as a sotto-portico at all--a new head had to be added to the Byzantine
pillar to supply the theft at its foot. The incident is rich in
suggestion of the achievement of the Venetian builders, of the delicate
counterpoise and equilibrium, the ceaseless give-and-take required in
this city of the sea. Venice was crowned queen, but her dominion could
only be maintained by understanding and reverence of the element she
ruled. To be glorious she had to be most humble; for the element she
constrained is one no human power can subdue; it would kiss her feet,
it would endow her with glory, but it would not surrender its life.
A thousand times more glorious should be her dominion, but a thousand
times more subtle must be her insight and her sway. Her finger must
be ever on the pulse of this living force, she must hold the key of
its temperament in her hand, she must know when to submit. The wedding
of Venice and the sea was not the submersion of one personality in
another, it was a union involving infinite tact, infinite insight and
acceptance.
We move forward again under the Ponte di Sant’ Antonin beside the
Fondamenta dei Furlani or Friulani, to the little building at its
further end, a sombre little building with heavily barred windows,
but with a sculptured façade. Its outer door is never more than half
open; it appears to admit visitors reluctantly, and, however bright
the sunshine in the world outside, our first impression of San Giorgio
dei Schiavoni is always gloomy. Only for two short hours, from ten
to twelve in the morning, the chapel is open--short, because the
sacristan keeps jealous watch upon the clock and, as if it were with
the booming of the great gun from the royal palace that his true day
began, hurries to close the remaining wing of the outer door, and
bar the chapel into solitude and darkness. Carpaccio’s pictures were
painted for the light. Their original home was not the Schiavoni
chapel, but the School which, till 1451, the Confraternity of St.
George and St. Triphonius owned in the convent of San Catterina in the
northern extremity of Venice near the Fondamenta Nuova. The chapel of
the Schiavoni needs more daylight, and even such as is obtainable is
not freely enough admitted; but Carpaccio is a magician whose spell
can release us from all consciousness of discomfort. The chapel is
an intimate revelation of one of the most fascinating characters
in Venetian history. It is the completest record of Carpaccio that
exists, the series of paintings in which his imagination has the
fullest range. It is not as a portrait painter of Venice and the
Venetians that Carpaccio is here employed, his scope is wider and the
whole spirit of his treatment is different. The _St. Ursula_ series
is not lacking in subtle personal touches; but it is not intimate in
the same degree as the _St. George_, and it does not touch the level
of personal intensity of the _St. Jerome_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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