Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel; Venice (Italy) -- History
N.E. from the campo stands the church of the Gesuiti, built (1715) on
the site of the ruined church of the Crociferi in the base style of the
age. The interior, lavishly decorated with marble and inlay of _verde
antico_, is incredibly vulgar in taste and contains, first chapel L.,
Titian’s martyrdom of St Lawrence, painted in 1558 when the old painter
was under Michael Angelo’s influence. The work, which was generally
esteemed one of the most rare and remarkable of his creations, is now so
darkened by time as to be barely legible. The church possesses also an
Assumption by Tintoretto.
Nearly opposite the Gesuiti is the oratory of the Crociferi, with Palma
Giovane’s, Doge Cigogna visiting the Oratory, and six other paintings in
the artist’s best style. The room contains also a Flagellation by
Tintoretto and a ceiling painting, the Assumption, by Titian. The large
monastery buildings opposite, still bearing the device of the order
(three crosses), are now a barrack. We retrace our steps across the
campo. About a hundred yards along the fondamenta Zen is the entrance
to the little church of S. Caterina, which contains Veronese’s admirably
preserved Marriage of St Catherine (p. 211). The church has works by
Palma Giovane and the inevitable Tintoretto, but we have eyes alone for
the St Catherine, one of the most satisfying examples of the later
glories of the Venetian school.
In an outlying part of the city to the N.W. is the church of S. Maria
dell’ Orto. Cima’s Baptist with SS. Peter, Mark, Jerome and Paul, in a
marble setting by Leopardi (p. 200) stands over the first altar, R.
aisle. In the third chapel L., is Tintoretto’s Presentation at the
Temple, and in the Cappella Contarini, the same master’s St Agnes. Both
have been freely restored, the former, says Ruskin, “has been so daubed
as to be a ghastly ruin and a disgrace to modern Venice.” We turn to the
choir, R. and L. of which are Tintoretto’s huge canvases, the Last
Judgment, and the Worship of the Golden Calf. These are very highly
appreciated by Ruskin but “demand resolute study if the traveller is to
derive any pleasure from them.” Vasari, who saw them shortly after they
were painted, was impressed by the terrible yet capricious invention
displayed in the Last Judgment, but lamented the lack of care and
diligence which marred what might have been a stupendous creation.
Closely scrutinised, however, both seemed to him painted _da burla_ (in
jest). The first chapel L. of entrance has (R. wall) a Pietà by Lorenzo
Lotto, and over the altar an early Virgin and Child by Giov. Bellini
disastrously repainted. Over the sacristy door is a miracle-working
half-figure of the Virgin and Child (restored), which was discovered in
a garden in 1577 and gave the present name to the church (Our Lady of
the Garden). Verocchio, Leopardi and Tintoretto were buried in the
sacristy, but most of the tombs were defaced or destroyed by the
Austrians when the church was used as a military magazine in 1855.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account