Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel; Venice (Italy) -- History
We continue E. and after some turning of corners, pass a picturesque
little shrine at the end of the calle Barbaro. We cross the Ponte S.
Gregorio and at length reach the great plague church of the Salute. The
interior contains over the third altar L., Titian’s somewhat faded but
still beautiful Descent of the Holy Ghost. The Virgin is drawn from the
same model as that of the Assumption in the Accademia. The small ceiling
medallions behind the high altar, the four Evangelists and four Fathers
of the Church are also by Titian. The St Matthew is the artist’s own
portrait. Over the altar of the sacristy is Titian’s St Mark enthroned,
attended by SS. Sebastian, Roch, Cosimo, and Damian (1513), sadly spoilt
by restoration. The ceiling paintings--the Death of Abel, Abraham’s
Sacrifice (Isaac is a lovely child), and David and Goliath are in
Titian’s later manner (1543). The space between the windows on the R.
wall is covered by Tintoretto’s Marriage at Cana. It is described at
length by Ruskin in the Venetian index and is esteemed by the great
critic to be “perhaps the most perfect example which human art has
produced of the utmost possible force and sharpness of shadow united
with richness of local colour.” In the sacristy are also a St Sebastian
by Paris Bordone, and two small oval paintings to the R. of the altar,
SS. Augustine and Nicholas, usually assigned to Ant. and Bart. Vivarini,
attributed, however, by Mr Berenson to Giambono. In the ante-sacristy is
a fifteenth century pietà in relief and an early painting (1339), The
Virgin and Child with the kneeling donors, Doge Francesco Dandolo, and
the Dogeressa Elisabetta, with their name saints.
E. of the Salute is the Seminario with a small collection of sculpture
and pictures. Ascending Longhena’s noble staircase we enter the Galleria
Manfredini, which contains works by Filippino Lippi and Veronese, and
Giorgione’s Apollo and Daphne (p. 202), probably painted for the panel
of a _cassone_ (bridal chest). The ferry from the Salute or the Dogana
point will land us near the Piazza.
SECTION XII
_SS. Apostoli-Palazzo Falier--I Gesuiti--I Crociferi--S.
Caterina--S. Maria dell’ Orto--S. Marziale--Palazzo Giovanelli._
(Admission to this last by application to the British Consul,
traghetto S. Felice, Grand Canal.)
From the Ca’ d’Oro Pier on the Grand Canal a narrow calle leads into the
broad Corso Vitt. Emanuele, which we follow to the R. and reach the
church of the SS. Apostoli. Admirers of Tiepolo will find his St Lucy
receiving the Sacrament before her Martyrdom, at the altar of the
Cappella Corner to R. of entrance where are also two family monuments in
the best style of the Lombardi school. A Veronese school painting, the
Fall of Manna, is at the L. of the choir. The remains of Marino Falier’s
house are incorporated in the palazzo over the Ponte SS. Apostoli
opposite the church.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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