Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel; Venice (Italy) -- History
We cross the Rialto bridge, and in the campo on the farther side find
the little church of S. Giacomo di Rialto, according to tradition (p. 6)
the oldest in Venice. This spot, Shakespeare’s Rialto, was the focus of
the commercial life of the old Republic. The colonnade was covered with
frescoes, and possessed the famous planisphere or _mappa mondo_ showing
the routes of Venetian commerce over the world. Here the patricians were
wont to meet before noon to discourse together of private and public
affairs. The church, rebuilt and altered more than once, no longer
stands on its original site. It was removed in 1322, when the Rialto was
enlarged and a loggia made, that the merchants might meet under cover.
The beautiful relief of the Virgin and Child over the portico is
fourteenth-century work. The six columns of the nave are the sole
remains of the eleventh-century church, rebuilt by Doge Dom. Selvo. On
the exterior of the apse will be found the (Latin) inscription whose
discovery so delighted Ruskin: AROUND THIS TEMPLE LET THE MERCHANT’S LAW
BE JUST, HIS WEIGHT TRUE, AND HIS COVENANTS FAITHFUL.[111]
[Illustration: EDICT STONE, RIALTO.]
On the farther side of the campo, opposite the W. front, is the
Hunchback of the Rialto (Il Gobbo di Rialto), restored in 1892, whence
in olden times the decrees of the Republic were promulgated. Beyond the
market is the church of S. Giovanni Elemosinario, early sixteenth
century, by Scarpagnino. The picturesque campanile has an interesting
relief below the cella of the bells. The high altar painting is by
Titian, the Patron Saint (St John the Almsgiver). In the chapel to the
R. is an altar-piece by Pordenone, SS. Sebastian, Roch and Mary
Magdalen. Above on the L. wall is a quaint relief, saved from the fire
which destroyed the old eleventh-century church.
We follow the hand pointing to the Museo Civico, and soon reach S.
Cassiano, containing three Tintorettos. The Crucifixion, held by Ruskin
to be one of the finest paintings in Europe by the master, is a most
remarkable and original treatment of the subject--a great and solemn
picture in excellent condition. The church has an altar-piece by Palma
Vecchio, The Baptist and four saints, said to be the first painted by
him at Venice, and three paintings by L. Bassano.
Following the indicator, we reach the little church of S. Maria Mater
Domini by one of the Lombardi: the façade by Sansovino. It is situated
in an interesting campo, where may be seen a few early Gothic houses
with some beautiful Byzantine reliefs and crosses. The church possesses,
second altar to the R., Catena’s S. Cristina. The angel to the left
holding the millstone is one of the most sweet and guileless of the
master’s creations (p. 201). In the R. transept is Tintoretto’s
Invention of the Cross. Opposite is a Last Supper attributed to
Bonifazio.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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