Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel; Venice (Italy) -- History
signature of Dürer; (8) a Crucifixion, and (II) Christ mourned by Three
Angels. Portraits of Doge Giov. Mocenigo (16) by Gentile Bellini and
(19) a Bellini school painting of Doge Franc. Foscari.
The curious old church of S. Giacomo dall’ Orio stands S. of the Museo
Civico. The timber coved roof dates from the fourteenth century. On the
wall R. of the entrance is a fine picture (1511) SS. Sebastian, Lawrence
and Roch by Giov. Buonconsiglio, a Vicenzian painter of the early
sixteenth century, sometimes known as Marescalco. In the R. aisle is a
richly carved and gilded vaulted frieze beneath which is Franc.
Bassano’s Preaching of the Baptist, one of his most beautiful works:
opposite is an Ionic column of _verde antico_ of wonderful size and
beauty, one of the “jewel shafts”[115] referred to by Ruskin. In a
chapel in the L. aisle is a Lorenzo Lotto, Coronation of the Virgin with
SS. Andrew, James, Cosimo and Damian (1546). The picture, which has been
much restored, brought the artist 130 gold ducats.
SECTION XIV
_S. Sebastiano--S. M. del Carmine--S. Pantaleone--The Cobblers’
Guildhall--S. Polo--S. Apollinare_
We follow the route (Section XI.) to the Campo Morosini and turn R. by
the church of S. Vitale along the Campiello Loredan. After crossing two
bridges and turning an angle to the L., we reach the Campo S. Samuele.
The ferry across the Grand Canal will land us at the Calle del
Traghetto, which we follow to the Campo S. Barnabà. Crossing the Campo
obliquely we reach on the R. the Ponte dei Pugni, as its name implies,
one of the bridges where the faction fights between the Castellani and
Nicolotti used to take place. The former were distinguished by red, the
latter by black caps and scarves. These contests were favoured by the
Signory, in order, it is believed, to foster a warlike spirit among the
people, and were continued until 1705, when a peculiarly bloody affray
in which stones and knives were used, led to their abolition.[116] If
the traveller will mount to the crown of the bridge he will see two
footmarks in stone let into the paving on either side. Victory smiled on
that faction which could thrust their adversaries beyond the line marked
by the feet. The bridge then had no parapets and in the course of the
struggle many a champion fell into the canal. We resume our way along
the Fondamenta as far as the Ponte delle Pazienze. A turning opposite,
to the L., brings us to the Calle Lunga, which we follow to the R.
direct to the church of S. Sebastiano. No admirer of Veronese should
leave this church unvisited. Here the painter, when he came, a young man
of twenty seven, to try his fortune at Venice, received his first
commission to decorate the sacristy, owing to the influence of his uncle
the prior of the monastery. Veronese has made the walls of this temple
glorious with some of his greatest creations. Here he desired to be
buried, and his two sons and his brother (all fellow artists) piously
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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