Venice : $b The queen of the AdriaticWaters, Clara Erskine Clement
History
Venice : $b The queen of the Adriatic
Waters, Clara Erskine Clement
Venice (Italy)
The church, best known as San Zanipolo, is in the cheerful Italian
Gothic, and with its broad arches and white windows does not at all
suggest its grand sepulchral character. But it is crowded with
monuments and tombs. Here many Doges were laid in state, and here
their funeral services were held. While living they also came here
on the 7th of October, in all their bravery and dignity, to celebrate
the anniversary of the victory over the Turks in the Dardanelles.
But now, these pageants being over, it is essentially a great tomb;
and taken together with Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, we have the
double Mausoleum of Venice.
San Zanipolo was founded because of a dream which {365} the Doge
Giacomo Tiepolo dreamed in 1226. Were dreams of more consequence in
those days, or are we less attentive to them? The Doge saw in his
sleep the little chapel of the Dominicans surrounded with the most
lovely red roses, so fragrant that all the air was sweet with their
perfume; and in the midst of the roses white doves with gold crosses
on their heads were flying all about. Then angels descended, bearing
smoking golden censers, and they passed through the chapel, and out
among the flowers, and the incense was like clouds, and a voice said,
"This is the place I have chosen for my preachers."
Instantly the Doge awoke and went to the Senate to tell his dream;
and at once a large plot of ground was added to the domain of the
Dominicans, and after eight years the foundation of the church was
laid under the supervision of the Doge and the Senators.
The two great pictures of this church--the "Death of Saint Peter
Martyr" by Titian, and a beautiful work by Giovanni Bellini--were
burned, and the remaining paintings are scarcely as interesting as
are the monuments, some of which are very curious, and many of which
perpetuate the names and deeds of the greatest men of the Republic.
The most absurd, perhaps, is the monument to the two Doges Valier,
and to the Dogaressa, the wife of the younger. The effect of the
enormous curtain, perhaps seventy feet high, with ropes, fringes, and
tassels galore, and sustained by cherubs, thus making a background
for the effigies of the three figures, is something indescribable.
Victory, Fame, the Virtues, Genii, a lion, and a dragon have all been
made to contribute to the glory of this family; and the inscription
tells us that this ugly Dogaressa, with her jewels, laces, furs,
ruffs, and embroidery, was "Distinguished by Roman virtue, Venetian
piety, and the Ducal Crown." One wonders what she could have asked
for in her prayers. Having all this, {366} what could be added unto
her? Would beauty have been worth while?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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