Virgin Spain : $b Scenes from the spiritual drama of a great peopleFrank, Waldo David
History
Virgin Spain : $b Scenes from the spiritual drama of a great people
Frank, Waldo David
Spain
The people are dark and silent like the dusk. The sky is pale with a
glow of convalescence. The houses, serried in the curving streets, are
hot. The evening has a magic, it throbs and swells with tacit fervors.
The whole of Córdoba is quick under the glow of night. The stone streets
are flesh, willfully rigid, of a spirit possessed with the desire to
dance. And in the dance are darker intimations: cries, ravage, conquest.
But the slow streams of men and women are the sole expression. Are they
puritans, then, these Andalusians? They wear easeful masks for faces.
The women are clad in black, and their soft flesh within the shrouds
seems not the flesh of lovers but of matrons. Even the girls, sinuous
walking lilies, promise a snare of momentary passion: their will of men
is not to be initiates of love, but to be mothers. All is easeful--the
masks on the faces, the dark women’s weeds. They have been worn so long!
They are like the streets whose stones are mellow and whose curves and
windings have the fatality of forest paths. If these be puritans, these
men and women, with their heritage of war, privation, pioneering--they
whose ancestry is Islam, the Cross, the promised Zion--long since has
the hard fruit ripened. They are firm and condignly whole within their
city whose maze of streets is whole within the mountains....
This evening, Córdoba, released from day, is going to the Bull-Ring.
There is no moon; the bowl of the arena holds a winey night in which the
stars are bubbles of effervescence. The seat tiers are deep. Men and
women clamber noisily from perch to perch. But the thousand voices and
footbeats are segregate and aloof within the Ring holding this wine of
the night. Upon one side, the seats have been roped off and are empty.
Below hang two electric lamps and cast their naked glare upon a stage
improvised with unpainted planks. The stage is a little tongue thrust
into the arena.
The crowd has come and paid for a good time. But it is
self-sufficient--the strong willed, resourceful crowd of Spain. Myriad
calls and shreds of laughter, play of hand and foot twine about the
Ring: agglutinate: the groups of clamor thicken and grow wider: the
entire Ring is joined in the enterprise of shouting, shuffling,
clapping. No Spaniards blackening the tiers, but this one sudden Spain!
It has many means of making itself live. Boys scurry over the laps of
matrons: men sing falling cadences to girls: babies shout. The _aguero_
with an earth-jar large as himself, the vendor of _pastas_ and of Arabic
sweetmeats, weave through the mass. But still the Bowl holds its uncanny
silence. The night bubbles at its brim.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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