Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
I had first to accustom my eyes to the darkness which reigned here, the
hatches being constructed to admit the light very sparingly. I soon,
however, saw too much; for all was raggedness, dirt, and disorder. But I
will describe matters in the order in which they occurred to me; for, as
I flatter myself that many of my countrywomen will in spirit make this
journey with me, and as many of them probably never had the opportunity
of being in such a vessel, I wish to describe it to them very accurately.
All who are accustomed to the sea will testify that I have adhered
strictly to the truth. But to return to the sloop. Its age emulated
mine, she being a relic of the last century. At that time little regard
was paid to the convenience of passengers, and the space was all made
available for freight; a fact which cannot surprise us, as the seaman's
life is passed on deck, and the ship was not built for travellers. The
entire length of the cabin from one berth to the other was ten feet; the
breadth was six feet. The latter space was made still narrower by a box
on one side, and by a little table and two little seats on the other, so
that only sufficient space remained to pass through.
At dinner or supper, the ladies--the Danish girl and myself--sat on the
little benches, where we were so squeezed, that we could scarcely move;
the two cavaliers--the captain and the steersman--were obliged to stand
before the table, and eat their meals in that position. The table was so
small that they were obliged to hold their plates in their hands. In
short, every thing shewed the cabin was made only for the crew, not for
the passengers.
The air in this enclosure was also not of the purest; for, besides that
it formed our bed-room, dining-room, and drawing-room, it was also used
as store-room, for in the side cupboards provisions of various kinds were
stored, also oil-colours, and a variety of other matter. I preferred to
sit on the deck, exposed to the cold and the storm, or to be bathed by a
wave, than to be half stifled below. Sometimes, however, I was obliged
to descend, either when rain and storms were too violent, or when the
ship was so tossed by contrary winds that the deck was not safe. The
rolling and pitching of our little vessel was often so terrible, that we
ladies could neither sit nor stand, and were therefore obliged to lie
down in the miserable berths for many a weary day. How I envied my
companion! she could sleep day and night, which I could not. I was
nearly always awake, much to my discomfort; for the hatches and the
entrance were closed during the storm, and an Egyptian darkness, as well
as a stifling atmosphere, filled the cabin.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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