Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
In regard to food, all passengers, captain and crew, ate of the same
dish. The morning meal consisted of miserable tea, or rather of nauseous
water having the colour of tea. The sailors imbibed theirs without
sugar, but the captain and the steersman took a small piece of candied
sugar, which does not melt so quickly as the refined sugar, in their
mouth, and poured down cup after cup of tea, and ate ship's biscuit and
butter to it.
The dinner fare varied. The first day we had salt meat, which is soaked
the evening before, and boiled the next day in sea-water. It was so
salt, so hard, and so tough, that only a sailor's palate can possibly
enjoy it. Instead of soup, vegetables, and pudding, we had pearl-barley
boiled in water, without salt or butter; to which treacle and vinegar was
added at the dinner-table. All the others considered this a delicacy,
and marvelled at my depraved taste when I declared it to be unpalatable.
The second day brought a piece of bacon, boiled in sea-water, with the
barley repeated. On the third we had cod-fish with peas. Although the
latter were boiled hard and without butter, they were the most eatable of
all the dishes. On the fourth day the bill of fare of the first was
repeated, and the same course followed again. At the end of every dinner
we had black coffee. The supper was like the breakfast,--tea-water,
ship's biscuit and butter.
I wished to have provided myself with some chickens, eggs, and potatoes
in Reikjavik, but I could not obtain any of these luxuries. Very few
chickens are kept--only the higher officials or merchants have them; eggs
of eider-ducks and other birds may often be had, but more are never
collected than are wanted for the daily supply, and then only in spring;
for potatoes the season was not advanced enough. My readers have now a
picture of the luxurious life I led on board the ship. Had I been
fortunate enough to voyage in a better vessel, where the passengers are
more commodiously lodged and better fed, the seasickness would certainly
not have attacked me; but in consequence of the stifling atmosphere of
the cabin and the bad food, I suffered from it the first day. But on the
second I was well again, regained my appetite, and ate salt meat, bacon,
and peas as well as a sailor; the stockfish, the barley, and the coffee
and tea, I left untouched.
A real sailor never drinks water; and this observation of mine was
confirmed by our captain and steersman: instead of beer or wine, they
took tea, and, except at meals, cold tea.
On Sunday evenings we had a grand supper, for the captain had eight eggs,
which he had brought from Denmark, boiled for us four people. The crew
had a few glasses of punch-essence mixed in their tea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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