Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
The termination of the lake, which we soon reached, was already
sufficient to compensate for my perseverance. A high mountain advances
into the lake, and divides it into two beautiful bays. We entered the
left bay, and landed at Mael, which lies at the mouth of the river
Rykaness. The distance from Haukaness is a little more than two miles.
I had to mount a horse to reach the waterfall, which was yet eleven miles
distant. The road runs through a narrow valley, which gradually narrows
still more until it can only contain the river; and the traveller is
obliged to ascend the heights and grope on along the sides of the
mountains. Below in the vale he sees the foam of the waves surging
against the rocks; they flow like a narrow band of silver in the deep
chasm. Sometimes the path is so high that one neither sees nor hears the
river. The last half mile has to be journeyed on foot, and goes past
spots which are really dangerous; numerous waterfalls rush from the
mountain-sides, and have to be crossed on paths of tree-trunks laid
alongside each other; and roads scarcely a foot wide lead along giddy
precipices. But the traveller may trust unhesitatingly to his guide's
arm, who has hitherto led every one in safety to his destination.
The road from Haukaness to the waterfall must be the finest that can be
imagined on a bright sunny day; for I was enchanted with the
wildly-romantic scenery in spite of the incessant rain and my wet
clothes, and would on no consideration have missed this sight.
Unfortunately the bad weather increased, and thick fogs rolled down into
the valleys. The water flowed down from the mountains, and transformed
our narrow path into a brook, through which we had to wade ankle-deep in
water. At last we reached the spot which afforded the best view of the
fall. It was yet free from mist, and I could still admire the
extraordinary beauty of the fall and its quantity of water. I saw the
immense mountain-rock which closes the valley, the tremendous pillar of
water which dashes over it, and rebounds from the rock projecting in the
centre of the fall, filling the whole valley with clouds of spray, and
concealing the depth to which it descends. I saw this, one of the rarest
and of the most magnificent of natural beauties; but alas, I saw it only
for a moment, and had scarcely time to recover from the surprise of the
first view when I lost it for ever! I was not destined to see the single
grandeurs of the fall and of the surrounding scenery, and was fain to be
content with one look, one glance. Impenetrable mists rolled from all
sides into the wild glen, and shrouded every thing in complete darkness;
I sat on a piece of rock, and gazed for two hours stedfastly at the spot
where a faint outline of the fall was scarcely distinguishable through
the mist sometimes this faint trace even was lost, and I could perceive
its vicinity only by the dreadful sounds of the fall, and by the
trembling of the rock beneath my feet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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