Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
"We gave a ball to the ladies of Reikjavik and the neighbourhood. The
company began to assemble about nine o'clock. We were shewn into a small
low-roofed room, in which were a number of men, but to my surprise I saw
no females. We soon found them, however, in one adjoining, where it is
the custom for them to wait till their partners go to hand them out. On
entering this apartment, I felt considerable disappointment at not
observing a single woman dressed in the Icelandic costume. The dresses
had some resemblance to those of English chambermaids, but were not so
smart. An old lady, the wife of the man who kept the tavern, was habited
like the pictures of our great-grandmothers. Some time after the dancing
commenced, the bishop's lady, and two others, appeared in the proper
dress of the country.
"We found ourselves extremely awkward in dancing what the ladies were
pleased to call English country dances. The music, which came from a
solitary ill-scraped fiddle, accompanied by the rumbling of the same
half-rotten drum that had summoned the high court of justice, and by the
jingling of a rusty triangle, was to me utterly unintelligible. The
extreme rapidity with which it was necessary to go through many
complicated evolutions in proper time, completely bewildered us; and our
mistakes, and frequent collisions with our neighbours, afforded much
amusement to our fair partners, who found it for a long time
impracticable to keep us in the right track. When allowed to breathe a
little, we had an opportunity of remarking some singularities in the
state of society and manners among the Danes of Reikjavik. While
unengaged in the dance, the men drink punch, and walk about with
tobacco-pipes in their mouths, spitting plentifully on the floor. The
unrestrained evacuation of saliva seems to be a fashion all over Iceland;
but whether the natives learned it from the Danes, or the Danes from the
natives, we did not ascertain. Several ladies whose virtue could not
bear a very strict scrutiny were pointed out to us.
"During the dances, tea and coffee were handed about; and negus and punch
were ready for those who chose to partake of them. A cold supper was
provided, consisting of hams, beef, cheese, &c., and wine. While at
table, several of the ladies sang, and acquitted themselves tolerably
well. But I could not enjoy the performance, on account of the incessant
talking, which was as fashionable a rudeness in Iceland as it is now in
Britain. This, however, was not considered as in the least unpolite.
One of the songs was in praise of the donors of the entertainment; and,
during the chorus, the ceremony of touching each other's glasses was
performed. After supper, waltzes were danced, in a style that reminded
me of soldiers marching in cadence to the dead march in Saul. Though
there was no need of artificial light, a number of candles were placed in
the rooms. When the company broke up, about three o'clock, the sun was
high above the horizon."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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