Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North — John Shaqi
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
The entrance once passed, we entered the Cattegat, which already looked
more like the great ocean: the coasts retired on each side, and most of
the shifts and barques, which till now had hovered around us on all
sides, bade us "farewell." Some bent their course towards the east,
others towards the west; and we alone, on the broad desert ocean, set
sail for the icy north. Twilight did not set in until 9 o'clock at
night; and on the coasts the flaming beacons flashed up, to warn the
benighted mariner of the proximity of dangerous rocks.
I now offered up my thanksgiving to Heaven for the protection hitherto
vouchsafed me, with a humble prayer for its continuance. Then I
descended to the cabin, where I found a convenient bunk (a kind of crib
fixed to the side of the ship); I laid myself down, and was soon in a
deep and refreshing sleep.
I awoke full of health and spirits, which, however, I enjoyed but for a
short time. During the night we had left behind us the "Cattegat" and
the "Skagerrack," and were driving through the stormy German Ocean. A
high wind, which increased almost to a gale, tumbled our poor ship about
in such a manner, that none but a good dancer could hope to maintain an
upright position. I had unfortunately been from my youth no votary of
Terpsichore, and what was I to do? The naiads of this stormy region
seized me, and bandied me to and fro, until they threw me into the arms
of what was, according to my experience, if not exactly after Schiller's
interpretation, "the horrible of horrors,"--sea-sickness. At first I
took little heed of this, thinking that sea-sickness would soon be
overcome by a traveller like myself, who should be inured to every thing.
But in vain did I bear up; I became worse and worse, till I was at length
obliged to remain in my berth with but one consoling thought, namely,
that we were to-day on the open sea, where there was nothing worthy of
notice. But the following day the Norwegian coast was in sight, and at
all hazards I must see it; so I crawled on deck more dead than alive,
looked at a row of mountains of moderate elevation, their tops at this
early season still sparkling with their snowy covering, and then hurried
back, benumbed by the piercing icy wind, to my good warm feather-bed.
Those who have never experienced it can have no conception of the biting,
penetrating coldness of a gale of wind in the northern seas. The sun
shone high in the heavens; the thermometer (I always calculate according
to Reaumur) stood 3 degrees above zero; I was dressed much more warmly
than I should have thought necessary when, in my fatherland, the
thermometer was 8 or 10 degrees _below_ zero, and yet I felt chilled to
the heart, and could have fancied that I had no clothes on at all.
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