Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North — John Shaqi
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
First came soup; but instead of gravy-soup, it was water-soup, with rice
and dried plums. This, when mingled with red wine and sugar, formed a
most exquisite dish for Danish appetites, but it certainly did not suit
mine. The second and concluding course consisted of a large piece of
beef, with which I had no fault to find, except that it was too heavy for
one in my weak state of health. At supper we had the same dishes as at
dinner, and each meal was followed by "tea-water." At first I could not
fancy this bill of fare at all; but within a few days after my
convalesence, I had accustomed myself to it, and could bear the sea-diet
very well. {20}
As the rich owner of the vessel was on board, there was no lack of the
best wines, and few evenings passed on which a bowl of punch was not
emptied. There was, however, a reason found why every bottle of wine or
bowl of punch should be drunk: for instance, at our embarkation, to drink
the health of the friends we were leaving, and to hope for a quick and
prosperous voyage; then, when the wind was favourable, its health was
drunk, with the request that it would remain so; when it was contrary,
with the request that it would change; when we saw land, we saluted it
with a glass of wine, or perhaps with several, but I was too ill to
count; when we lost sight of it, we drank a farewell glass to its health:
so that every day brought with it three or four distinct and separate
occasions for drinking wine. {21}
The sailors drank tea-water without sugar every morning and evening, with
the addition of a glass of brandy; for dinner they had pease, beans,
barley, or potatoes, with salted cod, bacon, "or junk;" good sea-biscuit
they could get whenever they chose.
The diet is not the worst part of these poor people's hardships. Their
life may be called a continual fight against the elements; for it is
precisely during the most dreadful storms, with rain and piercing cold,
that they have to be continually upon deck. I could not sufficiently
admire the coolness, or rather the cheerfulness and alacrity with which
they fulfilled their onerous duties. And what reward have they? Scanty
pay, for food the diet I have just described, and for their
sleeping-place the smallest and most inconvenient part of the ship, a
dark place frequently infested with vermin, and smelling offensively from
being likewise used as a receptacle for oil-colours, varnish, tar,
salt-fish, &c. &c.
To be cheerful in the midst of all this requires a very quiet and
contented mind. That the Danish sailors are contented, I had many
opportunities of observing during the voyage of which I am speaking, and
on several other occasions.
But after all this long description, it is high time that I should return
to the journey itself.
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