Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
As it was my intention to pursue my journey after two days, my first walk
on the following morning was to the police-office, to procure a passport
and the all-important pass-warrant; my next to the custom-house, to take
possession of a small chest, which I had delivered up five days before my
departure, and which, as the expeditor affirmed, I should find ready for
me on my arrival at Prague. {6} Ah, Mr. Expeditor! my chest was not
there. After Saturday comes Sunday; but on Sunday the custom-house is
closed. So here was a day lost, a day in which I might have gone to
Dresden, and even visited the opera.
On Monday morning I once more hastened to the office in anxious
expectation; the box was not yet there. An array of loaded wagons had,
however, arrived, and in one of these it might be. Ah, how I longed to
see my darling little box, in order that I might--_not_ press it to my
heart, but unpack it in presence of the excise officer!
I took merely a cursory glance at Prague, as I had thoroughly examined
every thing there some years before. The beautiful "Graben" and
Horse-market once more excited my admiration. It was with a peculiar
feeling that I trod the old bridge, from which St. John of Nepomuk was
cast into the Moldau for refusing to publish the confession of King
Wenceslaus' consort. {7} On the opposite bank I mounted the Hradschin,
and paid a visit to the cathedral, in which a large sarcophagus,
surrounded and borne by angels, and surmounted by a canopy of crimson
damask, is dedicated to the memory of the saint. The monument is of
silver, and the worth of the metal alone is estimated at 80,000 florins.
The church itself is not spacious, but is built in the noble Gothic
style; the lesser altars, however, with their innumerable gilded wooden
figures, look by contrast extremely puny. In the chapel are many
sarcophagi, on which repose bishops and knights hewn in stone, but so
much damaged, that many are without hands and feet, while some lack
heads. To the right, at the entrance of the church, is the celebrated
chapel of St. Wenceslaus, with its walls ornamented with frescoes, of
which the colours and designs are now almost obliterated. It is further
enriched with costly stones.
Not far from the cathedral is situated the palace of Count Czernin, a
building particularly favoured with windows, of which it has one for
every day in the year. I was there in an ordinary year, and saw 365; how
they manage in leap-year I do not know. The view from the belvedere of
this palace well repays the observer. It takes in the old and new town,
the noble river with its two bridges (the ancient venerable-looking stone
structure, and the graceful suspension-bridge, six hundred paces long),
and the hills round about, clothed with gardens, among which appear neat
country-houses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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