Visits and Sketches at Home and Abroad, Vol. 2 (of 3): With Tales and Miscellanies Now First CollectedJameson, Mrs. (Anna)
History
Visits and Sketches at Home and Abroad, Vol. 2 (of 3): With Tales and Miscellanies Now First Collected
Jameson, Mrs. (Anna)
Germany -- Description and travel
Talking of the day of judgment reminds me of the extraordinary cemetery
of Nuremberg, certainly as unlike every other cemetery, as Nuremberg is
unlike every other city. Imagine upon a rising ground, an open space
of about four acres, completely covered with enormous slabs, or rather
blocks of solid stone, about a foot and a half in thickness, seven feet
in length, and four in breadth, laid horizontally, and just allowing
space for a single person to move between them. The name, and the
armorial bearings of the dead, cast in bronze, and sometimes rich
sculpture, decorate these tombs: I remember one, to the memory of a
beautiful girl, who was killed as she lay asleep in her father's garden
by a lizard creeping into her mouth. The story is represented in bronze
bas-relief, and the lizard is so constructed as to move when touched.
From this I shrunk with disgust, and turned to the sepulchre of a famous
worthy, who measured the distance from Nuremberg to the holy sepulchre
with his garter: the implement of his pious enterprise, twisted into a
sort of true-love knot, is carved on his tomb. Two days afterwards I
entered the dominions of a reigning monarch, who is at this present
moment performing a journey to Jerusalem round the walls of his room.[24]
How long-lived are the follies of mankind! Have, then, five centuries
made so little difference?
The tombs of Albert Durer, Hans Sachs, and Sandraart, were pointed out
to me, resembling the rest in size and form. I was assured that these
huge sepulchral stones exceed three thousand in number, and the whole
aspect of this singular burial-place is, in truth, beyond measure
striking--I could almost add, appalling.
I was not a little surprised and interested to find that the principal
Gazette of Nuremberg, which has a wide circulation through all this part
of Germany, extending even to Frankfort, Munich, Dresden, and Leipsig,
is entirely in female hands. Madame de Schaden is the proprietor, and
the responsible editor of the paper; she has the printing apparatus
and offices under her own roof, and though advanced in years, conducts
the whole concern with a degree of activity, spirit, and talent, which
delighted me. The circulation of this paper amounts to about four
thousand: a trifling number compared to our papers, but a large number
in this economical country, where the same paper is generally read by
fifty or sixty persons at least.
* * * * *
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