All travellers agree that benevolence and integrity are the national characteristics of the Germans. Of their honesty I had daily proofs: I do not consider that I was ever imposed upon or overcharged during my journey, except once, and then it was by a Frenchman. Their benevolence is displayed in the treatment of animals, particularly of their horses. It was somewhere between Nuremberg and Hof, that, for the first and only time, I saw a postilion flog his horse unmercifully, or at least unreasonably. The Germans very seldom beat their horses: they talk to them, remonstrate, encourage, or upbraid them. I have frequently known a voiturier, or a postilion, go a whole stage--which is seldom less than fifteen English miles--at a very fair pace, without once even raising the whip; and have often witnessed, not without amusement, long conversations between a driver and his steed--the man, with his arm thrown over the animal's neck, discoursing in a strange jargon, and the intelligent brute turning his eye on his master with such a responsive expression! In this part of Germany there is a popular verse repeated by the postilions, which may be called the German _rule of the road_. It is the horse who speaks-- Berg auf, ubertrieb mich nicht; Berg ab, ubereil mich nicht; Auf ebenen Weg, vershöne mich nicht; Im Stahl, vergiss mich nicht. which is, literally, Up hill, overdrive me not; Down hill, hurry me not; On level ground, spare me not; In the stable, forget me not.