The pilgrimage of Baldwin and Gerald began at Radnor, where they were
officially received by the Lord Rees, one of the ablest of mediæval
Welsh rulers. From Radnor they crossed the Wye into Brecon, of which
Gerald was Archdeacon. Thence they proceeded eastwards, past
Llanthony to Abergavenny. From Abergavenny they went to Usk, from
Usk to Caerleon, and from Caerleon to Newport. There they turned to
the west, and visited Cardiff, Margam, Swansea, Kidwelly, Carmarthen,
Whitland, Haverfordwest; and so to the Vale of Roses at St. David's.
They then directed their steps towards the north, following the river
Teifi as far as Lampeter. At Strata Florida they spent a night; then
proceeding past Llanddewi they came to Llanbadarn where another night
was spent. Continuing in a northerly direction they reached the
shores of the Dovey, then {58} as now the boundary between North and
South Wales. From the boat which carried them across the broad
estuary they would behold the great mountains of Gwynedd--Cader Idris
towering right above them, and the fine peak of Snowdon blue in the
distance; while out to sea they would discern the low outline of
Bardsey Island, the burial place of countless pilgrims and saints.
They landed at Towyn, followed the coast of Merioneth through
Barmouth and Harlech, and then struck across Carnarvonshire from
Criccieth to Nevin, where they spent Palm Sunday. Their next
stopping-place was Carnarvon, and from that town they went to Bangor.
Not content to leave any part of the country unvisited, they next
crossed the Menai Straits into Anglesey. Returning to the mainland,
they followed the coast to Conway and Deganwy; then they entered the
lovely Vale of Clwyd, where they were entertained by the son of Owen
Gwynedd in his castle of Rhuddlan. From Rhuddlan they went to St.
Asaph, and then on to Chester. They had then reached the most
northern point in their itinerary; and so, turning southwards, they
visited in succession Oswestry, Shrewsbury, Wenlock, Ludlow,
Leominster, and Hereford. {59} The effect of the Archbishop's
sermons could not have been particularly profound; for only some
three thousand men took the cross, and in fact none of them ever
quitted their native land.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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