Walks about WashingtonLeupp, Francis E. (Francis Ellington)
History
Walks about Washington
Leupp, Francis E. (Francis Ellington)
Washington (D.C.) -- Description and travel; Washington (D.C.) -- History
“The house is on a grand and superb scale,” she wrote to her daughter,
“requiring about thirty servants to attend and keep the apartments in
proper order, and perform the ordinary business of the house and
stables. The lighting the apartments, from the kitchen to the parlor and
chambers, is a tax indeed; and the fires we are obliged to keep, to
secure us from daily agues, is another very cheering comfort. Bells are
wholly wanting, not one single one being hung through the whole house,
and promises are all you can obtain. I could content myself almost
anywhere three months; but surrounded by forests, can you believe that
wood is not to be had, because people cannot be found to cut and cart
it! There is not a single apartment finished. We have not the least
fence or yard, or other convenience without; and the great unfinished
audience-room I make a drying-room of, to hang up the clothes in. The
principal stairs are not up, and will not be this winter. The ladies are
impatient for a drawing-room; I have no looking-glasses but dwarfs for
this house, not a twentieth part lamps enough to light it.”
Mrs. Adams’s consolatory reflection that she would have to endure these
conditions only three months, was probably shared by many of the
thirty-two Senators and one hundred and five Representatives who, on the
high hill to the east, shivered and shook and passed unflattering
criticisms on everybody who had had a hand in the construction of the
Capitol. Only the old north wing was in condition for use, and not all
of that. The Senate met in what is now the Supreme Court chamber; the
House took its chances wherever there was room, ending its travels in an
uncomfortable box of a hall commonly styled “the oven.” Most of the
members had made some study of the L’Enfant chart before coming to
Washington. One of them put into writing his impressions as he looked
about and tried to identify the public improvements he had been led to
expect. None of the streets was recognizable, he said, with the possible
exception of a road having two buildings on each side of it, which was
called New Jersey Avenue. The “magnificent Pennsylvania Avenue,”
connecting the Capitol with the President’s House, was for nearly the
entire distance a deep morass covered with wild bushes, through which a
passage had been hewn. The roads in every direction were muddy and
unimproved. The only attempt at a sidewalk had been made with chips of
stone left from building the Capitol, and this was little used because
the sharp edges cut the walker’s shoes in dry weather, and in wet
weather covered them with white mortar. Another member declared that
there was nothing in sight in Washington but scrub oak, and that, since
there was “only one good tavern within a day’s march,” many members had
to live in Georgetown and drive to and from the daily sessions of
Congress in a rickety coach. And a particularly disgusted critic, not
content with recording that “there are but few houses in any place, and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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