Walks in RomeHare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
History
Walks in Rome
Hare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
Rome (Italy) -- Description and travel
These grounds are well worth visiting--quite the ideal of a deserted
Roman garden, a wealth of large Roman daisies, roses, and periwinkle
spreading at will amid remains of ancient statues and columns. A grand
little avenue of ilexes leads to a terrace whence there is a most
beautiful view towards the aqueducts and the Alban Hills, with a noble
sarcophagus and a quantity of fine aloes and prickly-pears in the
foreground. There is an obelisk, of which only the top is Egyptian. It
is said that there is a man's hand underneath;--when the obelisk was
lowered it fell suddenly, and one of the workmen had not time to take
his hand away. In the grounds annexed to the lower part of the villa is
the Fountain of Egeria (p. 375).
Almost standing in the garden of the villa, and occupying the site of
the house of Sta. Cyriaca, is the _Church of Sta. Maria in Domenica_ or
_della Navicella_. (If no one is here, the hermit at S. Stefano Rotondo
will unlock it.) The portico is due to Raphael (his design is at
Windsor). The damp interior (rebuilt by Leo X. from designs of Raphael)
is solemn and striking. It is in the basilica form, the nave separated
from the aisles by eighteen columns of granite and one (smaller, near
the tribune) of porphyry. The frieze, in chiaroscuro, was painted by
_Giulio Romano_ and _Pierino del Vaga_. Beneath the confessional are
the bones of Sta. Balbina, whose fortress-like church stands on the
Pseudo-Aventine. In the tribune are curious mosaics, in which the figure
of Pope Paschal I. is introduced, the square nimbus round his head being
an evidence of its portrait character, _i. e._, that it was done during
his lifetime.[166]
"Within the tribune are mosaics of the Virgin and Child seated on a
throne, with angels ranged in regular rows on each side; and, at
her feet, with unspeakable stiffness of limb, the kneeling figure
of Pope Paschal I. Upon the walls of the tribune is the Saviour
with a nimbus, surrounded with two angels and the twelve apostles,
and further below, on a much larger scale, two prophets, who appear
to point towards him. The most remarkable thing here is the rich
foliage decoration. Besides the wreaths of flowers (otherwise not a
rare feature) which are growing out of two vessels on the edge of
the dome, the floor beneath the figures is also decorated with
flowers--a graceful species of ornament seldom aimed at in the
moroseness of Byzantine art. From this point, the decline into
utter barbarism is rapid."--_Kugler._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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