Walks in RomeHare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
History
Walks in Rome
Hare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
Rome (Italy) -- Description and travel
The Babuino ends in the ugly but central square of the _Piazza di
Spagna_, where many of the best hotels and shops are situated. Hence the
Trinità is reached by a magnificent flight of steps (disgracefully ill
kept), which was built by Alessandro Specchi at the expense of a private
individual, M. Gueffier, secretary to the French embassy at Rome, under
Innocent XIII.
"No art-loving visitor to Rome can ever have passed the noble
flight of steps which leads from the Piazza di Spagna to the Church
of the Trinità de' Monti without longing to transfer to his
sketch-book the picturesque groups of models who there spend their
day, basking in the beams of the wintry sun, and eating those
little boiled beans whose yellow husks bestrew every place where
the lower class Romans congregate--practising, in short, the 'dolce
far niente.' Beppo, the celebrated lame beggar, is no longer to be
seen there, having been banished to the steps of the Church of St.
Agostino; but there is old Felice, with conical hat, brown cloak,
and bagpipes, father of half the models on the steps. He has been
seen in an artist's studio in Paris, and is reported to have
performed on foot the double journey between Rome and that capital.
There are two or three younger men in blue jackets and goat-skin
breeches; as many women in folded linen head-dresses, and red or
blue skirts; and a sprinkling of children of both sexes, in
costumes the miniature fac-similes of their elders. All these
speedily learn to recognise a visitor who is interested in that
especial branch of art which is embodied in models, and at every
turn in the street such a one is met by the flash of white teeth,
and the gracious sweetness of an Italian smile."--_H. M. B._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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