Walks in RomeHare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
History
Walks in Rome
Hare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
Rome (Italy) -- Description and travel
The end of the Corso--narrowed by a projecting wing of the Venetian
Palace--is known as the _Ripresa dei Barberi_, because there the
horses, which run in the races during the Carnival, are caught in large
folds of drapery let down across the street to prevent their dashing
themselves to pieces against the opposite wall.
Close to the end of this street, built into the wall of a house in the
Via di Marforio, is one of the few relics of republican times in the
city,--a Doric _Tomb_, bearing an inscription which states that it was
erected by order of the people on land granted by the Senate to Caius
Publicius Bibulus, the plebeian ædile, and his posterity. Petrarch
mentions in one of his letters that he wrote one of his sonnets leaning
against the tomb of Bibulus.
This tomb has a secondary interest as marking the commencement of the
Via Flaminia, as it stood just outside the Porta Ratumena from whence
that road issued. There are some obscure remains of another tomb on the
other side of the street. The Via Flaminia, like the Via Appia, was once
fringed with tombs.
From the Ripresa dei Barberi, a street passing under an arch on the
right, leads to the back of the Venetian Palace, where is the _Church of
S. Marco_, originally founded in the time of Constantine, but rebuilt in
833, and modernized by Cardinal Quirini in 1744. Its portico, which is
lined with early Christian inscriptions, contains a fine fifteenth
century doorway, surmounted by a figure of St. Mark. The interior is in
the form of a basilica, its naves and aisles separated by twenty
columns, and ending in an apse. The best pictures are S. Marco, "a pope
enthroned, by _Carlo Crivelli_, resembling in sharpness of finish and
individuality the works of Bartolomeo Viviani,"[18] and a Resurrection
by _Palma Giovane_.
"The mosaics of S. Marco, executed under Pope Gregory IV. (A.D.
827--844), with all their splendour, exhibit the utmost poverty of
expression. Above the tribune, in circular compartments, is the
portrait of Christ between the symbols of the Evangelists, and
further below SS. Peter and Paul (or two prophets) with scrolls;
within the tribune, beneath a hand extended with a wreath, is the
standing figure of Christ with an open book, and on either side, S.
Angelo and Pope Gregory IV. Further on, but still belonging to the
dome, are the thirteen lambs, forming a second and quite uneven
circle round the figures. The execution is here especially rude,
and of true Byzantine rigidity, while, as if the artist knew that
his long lean figures were anything but secure upon their feet, he
has given them each a separate little pedestal. The lines of the
drapery are chiefly straight and parallel, while, with all this
rudeness, a certain play of colour has been contrived by the
introduction of high lights of another colour."--_Kugler._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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