Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 1 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 1 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
But now forward, for the sun is in Leo, and in two hours he will be
fierce. And behind the Tower of Miomo, towards the second pieve of
Brando, the road ceases, and we must climb like the goat, for there
are few districts in Cape Corso supplied with anything but footpaths.
From the shore, at the lonely little Marina di Basina, I began to
ascend the hills, on which lie the three communes that form the pieve
of Brando. The way was rough and steep, but cheered by gushing brooks
and luxuriant gardens. The slopes are quite covered with these, and
they are full of grapes, oranges, and olives--fruits in which Brando
specially abounds. The fig-tree bends low its laden branches, and
holds its ripe fruit steadily to the parched mouth, unlike the tree of
Tantalus.
On a declivity towards the sea, is the beautiful stalactite cavern
of Brando, not long since discovered. It lies in the gardens of a
retired officer. An emigrant of Modena had given me a letter for
this gentleman, and I called on him at his mansion. The grounds are
magnificent. The Colonel has transformed the whole shore into a garden,
which hangs above the sea, dreamy and cool with silent olives, myrtles,
and laurels; there are cypresses and pines, too, isolated or in groups,
flowers everywhere, ivy on the walls, vine-trellises heavy with grapes,
oranges tree on tree, a little summer-house hiding among the greenery,
a cool grotto deep under ground, loneliness, repose, a glimpse of
emerald sky, and the sea with its hermit islands, a glimpse into your
own happy human heart;--it were hard to tell when it might be best to
live here, when you are still young, or when you have grown old.
An elderly gentleman, who was looking out of the villa, heard me
ask the gardener for the Colonel, and beckoned me to come to him.
His garden had already shown me what kind of a man he was, and the
little room into which I now entered told his character more and more
plainly. The walls were covered with symbolic paintings; the different
professions were fraternizing in a group, in which a husbandman, a
soldier, a priest, and a scholar, were shaking hands; the five races
were doing the same in another picture, where a European, an Asiatic,
a Moor, an Australian, and a Redskin, sat sociably drinking round
a table, encircled by a gay profusion of curling vine-wreaths. I
immediately perceived that I was in the beautiful land of Icaria, and
that I had happened on no other personage than the excellent uncle of
Goethe's Wanderjahre. And so it was. He was the uncle--a bachelor,
a humanistic socialist, who, as country gentleman and land-owner,
diffused widely around him the beneficial influences of his own great
though noiseless activity.
He came towards me with a cheerful, quiet smile, the _Journal des
Débats_ in his hand, pleased apparently with what he had been reading
in it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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