Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
At one end of this plain lies the Botanical Garden, which Ajaccio owes
to Louis XVI., and which was commenced under the superintendence of
Carlo Bonaparte. Its original purpose was the acclimatizing of foreign
plants, which were intended to be introduced into France. This garden,
sheltered by high mountains from the cold winds, and lying exposed to
the noonday sun, contains the noblest productions of foreign countries,
which, in the warm climate of Ajaccio, thrive in the open air. You
can walk here among splendid magnolias, those wonderful plants called
poincianas, tulip-trees, gleditschias, bignonias, tamarinds, and cedars
of Lebanon. The cochineal insect is found on the mighty Indian fig-tree
here, just as in Mexico.
The sight of this beautiful garden transports the mind to tropical
regions; and, when standing among these wondrous, foreign trees,
with our eyes fixed on the deep blue waters of the gulf, upon which
the warm summer air broods, it is difficult not to imagine ourselves
on the shores of some Mexican bay. The garden lies near the road to
Bastia—the most frequented of all the highroads from Ajaccio. This is
especially the case in the evening, when the townspeople return from
their occupations in the country.
It was a favourite amusement with me to take a seat on the shore of the
gulf, and to observe the passers-by. The women have all good figures,
and their features are clear and delicate. I was often struck with
the softness of their eyes and the fairness of their complexion. They
wear the fazoletto, or mandile as a head-dress; on Sundays it is of
white gauze, and contrasts well with the black faldetta. The peasant
women generally wear round straw hats with very low crowns. Upon the
straw hat they place a little cushion, and in this manner carry easily
and conveniently very heavy burdens. The Corsican, like the Italian
women, are distinguished by natural grace of deportment. I had frequent
occasion to be delighted with the ease and grace of their movements.
One day I met a young woman carrying fruit to the town. I requested
her to sell me some. The maiden immediately removed her basket from her
head, and, with the most perfect grace, requested me to take as much as
I wished. With equal delicacy, she declined my offer of money. She was
very poorly dressed. Afterwards, every time I met her in Ajaccio she
returned my salutation with a grace which would have well become a lady
of the noblest birth.
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