Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
At the mouth of the Prunelli stands the solitary tower of Capitello,
with which the history of Napoleon has made us acquainted.
The towns in this part of the country are but few in number: they are
called Fontanaccia, Serrola, and Cavro. Cavro is a paese, consisting of
several distinct hamlets, in a wild and romantic mountainous country,
rich in granite and porphyry, and interspersed with the most luxuriant
vineyards. Ten minutes' walk into this mountainous region of Cavro
brings us to the scene of the treacherous assassination of Sampiero. The
Ornanos chose their place well. There, in a circle, stand high rocks,
down the side of which winds a narrow path into the gorge, through
which a mountain stream flows, while around grow oaks, olive-trees,
and brushwood. On a rock near the place are still visible the ruins
of Castle Giglio, where Sampiero spent the night before his death. I
looked around in vain for some memorial which might inform the wanderer
that in this gloomy spot the most heroic of all Corsicans met his fate.
This, too, is a characteristic trait of the Corsican nation; the living
memory of the people is the only monument of their wild tragic history.
Every rock in the island is a memorial stone; and the Corsicans may
well dispense with monumental pillars and tablets, so long as the great
events of their history continue to form a living element of their own
being. For, when a people begin to decorate their land with statues and
with monuments, it is a sure sign that their primeval power is gone.
The whole of Italy is at present a mere museum of monuments, statues,
and inscriptions; while in Corsica, nature continues to reign, and
living tradition has lost none of its power. Indeed, the Corsicans
would not even understand the meaning of a statue or a monument; such
a thing would appear to them strange and foreign. When a statue—which
he declined—was voted to Pasquale Paoli, after his return from England,
a Corsican remarked: "As well give an honest man a box on the ear, as
offer him a statue."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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