Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
Walking further on towards Cape Muro, where the traveller sees, close to
the shore, several red granite cliffs—the Bloody Islands, as they are
called—on which stand a lighthouse and several Genoese watch-towers, I
found some fishermen engaged in drawing a net to land. They stood in
rows of from ten to twelve men, each company pulling in a long rope,
to which the net was fastened. These ropes are more than a hundred and
fifty yards long on each side; the part pulled in is neatly and cleverly
arranged in a round coil. In three-quarters of an hour the net was on
shore, heavy with fish. When they spread it out on the beach, such a
spluttering, and leaping, and bounding, and springing! The fish were
mostly anchovies, the largest were ray-fish (_razza_), very similar to
our Baltic flinder. They carry a sharp and painful sting at the end
of their long tails. The fishermen lay the ray-fish very carefully
on the ground, and sever the tail from the body with a knife. They
were an industrious and active body of men, of a powerful build; for
the Corsicans are as active and useful on sea as among their native
mountains. The old granite mountains and the sea develop and determine,
on the one side and on the other, the character of the island and
its population; and thus the Corsicans are naturally divided into two
powerful bodies—herdsmen and fishermen. The fishery in the neighbourhood
of Ajaccio is, as in all the bays of the island, of great importance.
In April, the tunny coasts along the shores of Spain, France, and Genoa,
and makes its appearance in the Corsican channel; the shark is its sworn
enemy. It also is often seen in these seas, but it does not come near
the shore.
Returning in the twilight from this sea-side walk to Ajaccio, the
report of a gun at no great distance among the hills, struck my ear.
Presently a man came running up to me and inquired in an excited manner:
"You heard the shot?" "Yes." "Did you see any one?" "No." He then left
me. Two sbirri passed. "What was it?" I inquired. "Some one has been
murdered, we suppose." A walk in the country may be diversified in
this island by somewhat dramatic occurrences. Death breathes around one
everywhere, and the beauty of Nature herself has here the sad charm of
melancholy and gloom.
FOOTNOTES:
[M] This is incorrect.
[N] An allusion to the fact that Napoleon's wish to be buried on
the banks of the Seine was not complied with.—_Tr._
BOOK IX.—WANDERINGS IN CORSICA.
CHAPTER I.
FROM AJACCIO TO THE VALLEY OF ORNANO.
The road from Ajaccio to Sartene is rich in remarkable scenery and
peculiar landscape. It runs for a time along the Gulf of Ajaccio,
crosses the river Gravone, which falls into the gulf, and winds through
the valley of the Prunelli. From all sides the view of the gulf is
magnificent, at times unseen, at other times reappearing, as the road
pursues its spiral windings among the mountains.
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