Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
The road from Isola Rossa to Calvi keeps constantly by the coast. The
ruins of many villages, destroyed by the Saracens, are visible on the
hills. Above Monticello lie the ruins of a castle which belonged to the
famous Giudice della Rocca, the lieutenant of the Pisans. This righteous
judge of his people still lives in the memory of the Corsicans. He
was just, they tell, even towards the brutes. One day he heard an
unusual bleating among the lambs of a flock in the Balagna; he asked
the shepherd what ailed them, and the man confessed that they were
bleating for hunger, as the milk had been taken from their dams. Giudice
thereupon ordered that the sheep should henceforth not be milked till
the lambs were satisfied.
The first town I passed was Algajola, a seaport of considerable
antiquity, but with only two hundred inhabitants. Lying in ruins, as
the bombs of the English left it sixty years ago, it bears mournful and
striking testimony to the present state of Corsica. Even the inhabited
houses resemble black ruins. A friendly old man, whom the wars of
Napoleon had at one time taken as far as Berlin, showed me what was
remarkable in Algajola, pointing out to me a great heap of stones as
the _Palazzo della Communità_. In the time of the Genoese, Algajola
was the central point of the Balagna; and as it was so situated that
the inhabitants of every village in the province could travel to it and
return home the same day, the Genoese fortified it, and raised it to a
residency of one of their lieutenants of the island.
But the most notable thing about the little town is its story of two
faithful lovers, Chiarina and Tamante. The French had condemned Tamante
to death; but his true-love armed herself, and with the aid of her
friends rescued him from execution. The noble deeds that spring from
faithful love are everywhere honoured by the people, and become immortal
in their traditions; the story of Chiarina and Tamante is popular over
the whole of Italy, and I have found it selling as a cheap pamphlet in
the streets of Rome.
On the shore near Algajola there is a quarry of singularly beautiful
blue granite. I saw a pillar there which would do honour to an Indian
or Egyptian temple. It is sixty feet in length, and twelve feet in
diameter. It has been lying for years neglected on the field, exposed
to the injuries of the weather, and noticed at most by the passing
traveller, or the eagle that alights on it. Originally intended for a
monument to Napoleon in Ajaccio, it was never removed from the quarry,
as the necessary sum could not be raised for its transport. It will
probably now be conveyed to Paris. The enormous block which supports
the Vendôme pillar in Paris is also of this same exquisite granite of
Algajola. With what just pride, therefore, may the Corsican stand before
that pillar of Austerlitz, and tell the French: "My country produced
both the great man up yonder, and the glorious granite on which he
stands."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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