Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
The paese of Cervione lies northward from Aleria, on the slope of
the hill. I wish that I had visited it, and this desire is now my
punishment for neglecting the opportunity of doing so when it was in my
power; for although it contains nothing worth seeing, it was the royal
residence of Theodore. It happens at times that one is afflicted with
the travelling-sickness to such an extent, that with a sleepy eye he
passes heedlessly over many interesting objects. I just got a glimpse
of Cervione on the height, and gave it up for the ruins of Mariana.
Northward from Cervione, the Colo River disembogues—the largest stream
in the island, watering numerous valleys in its course. The heat of
summer had almost dried it up. All around, the stream has at various
times overflowed on the extensive flats of Mariana, or Marana as the
Corsicans now call it. Here, on the left bank of the river, stood the
second Roman colony: Marius founded it. It is remarkable that in this
bloody land of the Corsicans the two great avengers and deadly foes,
Marius and Sulla, must needs have planted colonies. Their terrible
names, which perpetuate the memory of the most horrible cruelties of
civil war and intestine revolution, cast a deeper shade of gloom over
the already gloomy and oppressive air of Corsica.
I sought for the ruins of Mariana. They lie towards the sea-shore,
a league from the highway. As at Aleria, I found here a wide extent
of level ground everywhere covered with the debris of walls. It is
melancholy to wander over such ground—one cannot but reflect that these
stones once constituted a city, in which the life of many centuries
dwelt. Fain would one take Amphion's lyre and try, by the magic power
of melody, to reconstruct the fragments, and have one peep at the town
and the citizens as they were. What kind of people? to what epoch did
they belong? The ruins of Mariana tell even less than those of Aleria:
they do not afford materials even for fixing the date of the town's
existence. It flatters the Corsican if the stranger finds in those
stones the remains of Roman buildings; and in pleasing self-delusion,
the traveller may sit down on one of these ruinous heaps and think of
Marius sitting on the ruins of Carthage, and mourning the fall of that
mighty city. The remains of two churches are the only objects which
attract attention. They are the most remarkable mediæval remains in
Corsica. The first and smaller must have been a handsome chapel—its
long nave is still in good preservation. It has a pulpit ornamented
on the outside by six semicircular pillars of the Corinthian order.
There are sculptures of very simple workmanship on the entablature of
the side entrance. A mile farther on, lie the beautiful remains of a
larger church, the nave of which is also still standing. It is called
the Canonica, a cathedral church, consisting of three naves, with rows
of ornamental pillars of the Doric order, and on each side a pulpit of
the Gothic chapel-architecture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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