Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
The central nave is 110 feet long and
fifty broad. The façade is very much injured, and of the Pisan style.
There are sculptures on the arch of the portal—griffins, dogs hunting a
stag, and a lamb—of such wretched execution that it might belong to the
eighteenth century. It is said that this Canonica was a Roman temple,
which the Mahometans converted into a mosque, and the Christians in
their turn into a church, after Hugo Colonna had won Mariana from the
Moors. It is easy to see that the building has been at some past time
restored, but it does not follow that it was originally Roman. On the
contrary, it bears throughout the appearance of a cathedral church
erected by the Pisans. Its forms are exquisitely pure, noble and simple,
and of the finest symmetry; and this, along with the perfect purity of
the Corsican marble with which the church is covered, certainly gives
it all the appearance of a piece of ancient architecture.
When I entered the interior of the church, the community of worshippers
whom I found there on their knees took me by surprise. They were
thriving wild-trees, which stood in rows behind one another across
the nave, and quietly flourished in this retired spot. A he-goat with
a venerable beard stood right before the altar, and seemed to have
forgotten his food and to be lost in religious contemplation. The
herds were in the habit of pasturing their goats in the vicinity of the
Canonica. I inquired about coins, but without success, although here,
as well as in other parts of Corsica, a great many imperial ones have
been found—with which, indeed, half the world is blessed. From this old
Marian colony, which was planted at an earlier period than Aleria—and
which must have been a colony of citizens, and not of soldiers like
Sulla's—the only Roman road in Corsica ran by Aleria to Præsidium, and
thence to Portus Favoni, terminating in Palæ situated on the strait now
called Bonifazio. The island in those times was even more pathless than
in the present day, and the Romans never penetrated into the interior
of the hill-country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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