Opposite “White’s” is the Devonshire Club, which occupies the site of
the famous Crockford’s, probably the most notorious gaming house of its
day. It took its name from one Crockford, who had been a fish salesman
in the City, but, coming to the West, made an immense fortune here.
The house was built for him, in 1827, from the designs of the Wyatts.
The internal decorations were so lavish that the ubiquitous Creevey
describes the place as “magnificent, and perfect in taste and beauty,”
and adds that “it is said by those who know the Palace of Versailles,
to be even more magnificent than that,” which certainly sounds like
thundering hyperbole! The great “Ude” catered for the palates of
Crockford’s _habitués_, and there is a story told of the illustrious
_chef_, during his connection with the club, to the following
effect:--Colonel Damer happening to enter Crockford’s one evening to
dine early, found Ude in a towering rage, and asking the cause, was
thus answered by the infuriated _cordon bleu_:--“_Monsieur le Colonel_,
did you see that man who has just gone out? Well, he ordered a red
mullet for his dinner. I made him a delicious little sauce with my own
hands. The price of the mullet marked on the _carte_ was 2s.; I asked
6d. for the sauce. He refuses to pay the 6d. The _imbecile_ apparently
believes that the red mullets come out of the sea with my sauce in
their pockets!” Of such are the woes of genius! It was Ude, too, who,
on hearing of the last illness of his former patron the Duke of York,
exclaimed, “Ah! _Mon pauvre Duc_, how much you shall miss me where you
are gone!”
Wellington was a member of Crockford’s, though he never played deeply;
so was Theodore Hook, who, because his doctor had once warned him
against exposing himself to the _night_ air, had the following method
of abiding by the _medico’s_ instructions:--“I therefore,” he said,
“come up every day to Crockford’s, or some other place to dinner, and I
make it a rule on no account to go home again till about four or five
o’clock in the morning!”
[Sidenote: BROOKS’S CLUB.]
Another famous Club in St. James’s Street, was Brooks’s, which was
nearly opposite the original White’s. Like so many of these clubs it
took its name from a former proprietor, although it was at first
merely a gaming club, formed by Almack.
Brooks, whom Tickell immortalises (if he could immortalise anything) as
“_Liberal Brooks, whose speculative skill,
Is hasty credit, and a distant bill_,”
removed the club from its quarters in Pall Mall to its present
position, and opened it in 1778, but, unlike Crockford, he does not
appear to have made a fortune out of the concern.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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