Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
I am exceedingly embarrassed in giving an opinion on the
Escurial. So many grave and respectable persons, who, I am happy
to believe, never saw it, have spoken of it as a _chef-d'œuvre_
and a supreme effort of human genius, that I, who am but a poor,
miserable, wandering writer of _feuilletons_, am afraid that
I shall appear to have determined to be original, and seem to
take pleasure in contradicting the generally-received opinion.
Despite of this, however, I declare conscientiously, and from
the bottom of my heart, that I cannot help thinking the Escurial
the dullest and most wearisome edifice that a morose monk and a
suspicious tyrant could ever conceive for the mortification of
their fellow-creatures. I am very well aware that the Escurial was
erected for an austere and religious purpose, but gravity does
not consist in baldness, melancholy in atrophy, or meditation in
_ennui_; beauty of form can always be united to elevation of ideas.
The Escurial is arranged in the form of a gridiron, in honour
of Saint Lawrence. Four towers, or square pavilions, represent
the feet of this instrument of torture; four masses of building
connect the pavilions with each other, and form the framework,
while other cross rows represent the bars; the palace and the
church are situated in the handle. This strange notion, which must
have hampered the architect very much, is not easily perceived by
the eye, although it is very visible upon the printed plan. If
the visitor were not told of it, he most certainly would never
discover it. I do not blame this symbolical piece of puerility,
which suited the taste of the times; for I am convinced that when a
certain model is given to an architect, so far from shackling him,
it will, provided he has genius, prove of great use and assistance
to him, and cause him to have recourse to expedients of which he
would, otherwise, never have thought; but it strikes me that, in
this case, he might have arrived at a far different result. Those
persons who are fond of _good taste and sobriety_ in architecture,
must think the Escurial a specimen of perfection, for the only line
employed in it is the straight line, and the only order the Doric
order, which is the most melancholy and poorest of any.
[Illustration: THE ESCURIAL.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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