Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
A few good pictures still remain in the Sacristy (the best have
been transferred to the Royal Museum at Madrid). Among them are
three or four specimens on wood of the German school, possessing
a very uncommon degree of merit. The ceiling of the grand
staircase is painted in fresco by Luca Jordano, and represents,
allegorically, Philip II.'s vow and the foundation of the convent.
The acres of wall in Spain painted by this same Luca Jordano, are
something truly prodigious, and we moderns who lose our breath at
the slightest exertion, find it a difficult task to conceive the
possibility of such labours. Pellegrini, Luca, Gangiaso, Carducho,
Romulo, Cincinnato, and many others have painted in the Escurial
cloisters, vaults, and ceilings. That of the library is the work
of Carducho and Pellegrini, and is a good sample of light, clear
fresco colouring; the composition is very rich and the twining
arabesques in the best possible taste. The library of the Escurial
is remarkable for one peculiarity, and that is, that the books are
placed on the shelves with their backs to the wall and their edges
to the spectator; I do not know the reason of this odd arrangement.
The library is particularly rich in Arabic manuscripts, and
must contain many inestimable and totally unknown treasures. At
present that the conquest of Algiers has rendered Arabic quite a
fashionable and ordinary language, it is to be hoped that this
rich mine will be thoroughly worked by our young orientalists.
The other books appeared to be mostly works of theology and
scholastic philosophy. We were shown some manuscripts on vellum,
with illuminated margins ornamented with miniatures; but, as it
was Sunday, and the librarian was absent, we could not hope for
anything else, and we were consequently obliged to depart without
having seen a single _incunable_ edition; which, by the way, was a
much greater disappointment to my companion than to myself, who,
unfortunately, am not an enthusiast in the matter of bibliography,
or anything else.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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