Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
In one of the corridors is placed a white marble Christ the size
of life, attributed to Benvenuto Cellini, and some very singular
fantastic paintings in the style of the Temptations of Callot
and Teniers, only much older. In other respects it is impossible
to conceive anything more monotonous than these narrow, low, and
interminable corridors of grey granite, which circulate all through
the edifice like the veins in the human body; you must really
be blind to find your way about them; you go up stairs and down
stairs, you make a thousand twistings and turnings, and if you only
walked about three or four hours you would wear out the soles of
your shoes, for the granite is as rough as a file, and as harsh
as so much sand-paper. From the dome you perceive that the balls
which, when viewed from below, did not appear larger than horses'
bells, are of an enormous size, and might serve as monster globes.
An immense panorama unfolds itself at your feet, and you perceive
at one glance the hilly country which separates you from Madrid;
on the other side you behold the mountains of Guadarrama. From
this position, too, you see the whole plan of the building; your
eye plunges into the courtyards and cloisters, with their rows of
superposed arcades, and their fountain or central pavilion; the
roofs appear like so many simple ridges, just as they would in an
engraving that gave a bird's-eye view of the place.
When we ascended to the dome, a stork with three little ones was
perched in a large straw nest, that resembled a turban turned
upside down, placed on the top of one of the chimneys. This
interesting family presented the strangest appearance in the world;
the mother was standing on one leg in the middle of the nest,
with her neck stuck between her shoulders, and her beak reposing
majestically upon her breast, like a philosopher in meditation; the
little birds were stretching out their long beaks and their long
necks to ask for food. I hoped to witness one of those sentimental
scenes of natural history, where we see the large white pelican
wounding her own breast to nourish her offspring; but the stork
appeared to be very little moved by these demonstrations of hunger,
and did not move more than the stork engraved on wood which adorns
the frontispiece of the books coloured by Cramoisi. This melancholy
group increased still more the profound solitude of the place,
and imparted a kind of Egyptian character to this Pharaoh-like
assemblage of buildings. After descending from the dome, we visited
the garden, where there is more architecture than vegetation. It
consists of a succession of large terraces and parterres of clipped
boxwood, representing a series of designs similar to the patterns
of old damask silk, with a few fountains, and pieces of greenish
water; it is a wearisome, solemn garden, as formal as a _Golilla_,
and altogether worthy of the morose-looking edifice to which it is
attached.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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