Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The streets of Toledo are exceedingly narrow; a person leaning out
of a window on one side may shake hands with a person leaning out
of a window on the other; and nothing would be more easy than to
get over the balconies, if propriety was not preserved and aerial
familiarities prevented by very handsome rails and charming iron
bars, worked with that artistic richness of which they are so
prodigal on the other side of the Pyrenees. This want of breadth
would cause all the partisans of civilization among us to cry out
in a frightful manner. These good people dream of nothing but
immense places, vast squares, inordinately broad streets, and other
embellishments more or less progressive. Nothing, however, can
be more sensible than narrow streets in a very hot climate; and
the architects who are making such large gaps in the buildings at
Algiers will find this out very shortly. At the bottom of these
narrow divisions so appropriately made between the blocks and
masses of houses, you enjoy the most delicious shade and coolness:
you walk about, completely protected, in the human polypier called
a city; the spoonfuls of molten lead that Phœbus pours down from
the sky at the hour of noon never fall upon you; the projecting
roofs serve all the purposes of parasols.
If, for your misfortune, you are obliged to traverse any _plazuela_
or _calle ancha_, exposed to the canicular sunbeams, you will
soon appreciate the wisdom of people of former days, who were
not accustomed to sacrifice everything to a notion of stupid
regularity; the flagstones are as hot as the iron plates by means
of which mountebanks make geese and turkeys dance the Cracovienne;
the wretched dogs, who possess neither shoes nor _alpagartas_,
gallop over these stones howling most piteously. If you raise the
knocker of a door, it burns your fingers; you feel your brains
boiling inside your skull like a saucepan full of water on the
fire; your nose becomes the colour of a cardinal's hat; your hands
are so sunburnt that you seem to have a pair of gloves on; and you
evaporate in perspiration. Such is the advantage to be obtained
by having spacious squares and broad streets. Every one who has
walked along the _Calle d'Alcala_ at Madrid, between twelve and
two o'clock in the day, will be of my opinion. Besides, in order
to have broad streets, you are obliged to reduce the size of the
houses, and the opposite process strikes me as being the more
sensible one of the two. Of course, these observations only apply
to warm countries, where it never rains, where mud is a chimera,
and where carriages are extremely uncommon. Narrow streets in
our showery climate would be nothing more or less than so many
abominable sewers. In Spain, the women go out on foot in black
satin shoes; and, shod in this manner, walk considerable distances;
I admire them for this, especially at Toledo, where the pavement
is formed of small polished stones, shining and pointed, and which
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