Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Never did a queen of ancient times, not even Cleopatra, who used
to drink pearls, never did an empress of the Lower Empire, never
did a duchess in the Middle Ages, never did a Venetian courtesan
in the time of Titian, possess more brilliant jewels or a richer
assortment of clothes than Our Lady of Toledo. We were shown some
of her gowns. There is one of them which defies all your efforts to
say of what material it is composed, so completely is it covered
with flowers and arabesques of fine pearls, among which there are
some of a size beyond all price; there are also several rows of
black pearls which are very rare indeed. Suns and stars of precious
stones also adorn this prodigious gown, which is so brilliant
that the eye can scarcely support its splendour. It is worth some
millions of francs.
We terminated our visit by going up into the spire, the top of
which is reached by a succession of rather steep but not very
enticing ladders placed one above the other. About halfway, in
a kind of store-room that we were obliged to traverse, we saw a
number of gigantic coloured figures, dressed in the style of the
last century and used in some procession or other.
The magnificent view that bursts upon you when you have reached
the summit of the spire, repays you most amply for all the trouble
of clambering up. The whole town is presented to your gaze with
all the sharpness and precision of the cork models exhibited by
Monsieur Pelet, and so greatly admired at the _Exposition_ at
Paris. This comparison will appear, doubtless, very prosaic, and
not at all picturesque; but, in sober truth, I could not hit
upon a better or more appropriate one. The dwarfish, misshapen
rocks of blue granite, which shut in the Tagus on both sides, and
constitute a portion of the horizon of Toledo, add still more to
the singularity of the landscape, which is bathed and inundated by
torrents of crude, pitiless, blinding light, not mitigated by the
least reflection, but on the contrary, increased by a cloudless,
vapourless sky that has become white from the intense heat, like
iron in a furnace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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