Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The sacristies and capitular rooms in the Cathedral of Toledo are
of more than royal magnificence. Nothing can be more noble and
picturesque than these vast halls decorated in that solid and
severe style of luxury that the Church alone understands. They
present an endless succession of carved walnut-wood or black oak,
tapestry, or Indian damask curtains hanging down before the doors,
brocade drapery with large massive folds, figured tapestry, Persian
carpets, and fresco paintings. We will not attempt to describe
all these things in detail, we will merely mention one room
ornamented with admirable frescoes representing sacred subjects,
in the German style, of which the Spaniards have produced such
successful imitations. These frescoes are said to have been painted
by Berruguete's nephew, if not by Berruguete himself, for these
prodigious geniuses were great in all three branches of art. We
will also mention an immense ceiling by Luca Giordana, filled
with a countless multitude of angels and allegorical personages
in attitudes that offer the most extraordinary instances of
foreshortening. It is also remarkable for a singular optical
illusion. A ray of light issues from the middle of the roof,
and although painted on a simple flat surface, seems to fall
perpendicularly on your head, whichever way you turn.
Here is kept the treasure, that is to say, the beautiful capes of
brocade, cloth of gold, and silver damask; the marvellous guipures,
the silver-gilt reliquaries, the diamond monstrances, the gigantic
silver candlesticks, the embroidered banners, and, in fact, all the
decorations and accessories used in the representation of the drama
called the mass.
In the cupboards of one of these rooms is kept the wardrobe of
the Holy Virgin, for naked statues of marble or alabaster are
not sufficient for the passionate piety of these natives of the
South. In their devout enthusiasm, they load the object of their
veneration with ornaments of the most extraordinary richness;
nothing is good, or brilliant, or expensive enough; the form of the
figure and the materials of which it is made disappear completely
under this mass of valuables; but the Spaniards trouble themselves
very little about that. The great thing is that it should be a
physical impossibility to hang one pearl more on the ears of the
marble idol, to fix a larger diamond in its golden crown, or form
another pattern of precious stones on its brocade robe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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