Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
I was told an anecdote connected with this subject, which I will
insert here, as it is both short and characteristic. The dream
of every _jefe politico_ in Spain is to possess an _alameda_, as
that of every prefect in France is to have a Rue de Rivoli in his
town. The dream of the _jefe politico_ of Toledo was, therefore,
to procure the population committed to his government the
pleasures of a public promenade. The site was chosen, and, thanks
to the co-operation of the inmates of the Presidio, the necessary
levellings were soon completed. All the promenade now wanted was
trees, but trees cannot be improvised, and the _jefe politico_
very judiciously resolved to substitute for them short posts,
connected with iron chains. As money, however, is very scarce in
Spain, the ingenious official, who certainly possessed a fertile
imagination, if any one ever did, thought of the historical chains
of _San Juan de los Reyes_, and said to himself, "They are exactly
what I want, and are all ready to my hand!" Accordingly, the chains
of the captives set free by Ferdinand and Isabella the Catholic,
were hung on the posts of the _alameda_, while each of the smiths
who had done the work received a few armfuls of the heroic metal
for his trouble. Certain intelligent persons (you are sure to find
some everywhere) said that it was an act of Vandalism, and the
chains were taken back to the church. As for those which had been
given in payment to the workmen, they had long since been forged
into ploughshares, mules' shoes, and other utensils. This story is
perhaps a piece of calumny, but it has all the air of probability;
I give it as I heard it related. But let us return to our church.
The key turned with difficulty in the rusty lock, but as soon as
this slight obstacle was surmounted, we entered the dilapidated but
most elegant and admirable cloisters. Slender columns supported
on their florid capitals a number of arches adorned with the most
delicate nervures and embellishments, while all along the walls ran
long inscriptions in praise of Ferdinand and Isabella, in Gothic
characters, intertwined with flowers, a Christian imitation of
the sentences and verses from the Koran employed by the Moors as
an architectural ornament. What a pity it is that so precious an
edifice should be thus abandoned!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account