Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
By giving a few kicks against the doors, which were either
barricaded with worm-eaten planks, or obstructed by rubbish, we
succeeded in forcing our way into the church, which is a charming
building, and, with the exception of a few places where it had
been wantonly mutilated, seemed as if it had only been completed
yesterday. Gothic art never produced anything more suave, more
elegant, or more fine. All round it runs a gallery pierced and
penetrated like a fish-slice, hanging its adventurous balcony on
the clusters of pillars, and following exactly their indentations
and projections; gigantic scroll-work, eagles, monsters, heraldic
animals, coats of arms, banners, and emblematic inscriptions,
similar to those in the cloisters, complete the decorations. The
choir, which is situated opposite the _retablo_, at the other
extremity of the church, is supported by a very bold and handsome
elliptic arch.
The altar, which, without doubt, was a masterpiece of sculpture
and painting, has been pitilessly pulled down. These useless
acts of destruction sadden the heart, and make you doubt the
human understanding: how do old stones impede new ideas? Cannot
a revolution be effected without the Past being demolished?
It strikes me that the _Constitucion_ would have lost nothing
by leaving intact the church of Ferdinand and Isabella the
Catholic--that noble queen, who believed the bare word of Genius,
and endowed mankind with a new world.
Venturing up a staircase that was half in ruins, we penetrated
into the interior of the convent. The refectory is a tolerably
spacious apartment, presenting nothing peculiarly worthy of notice,
save a frightful picture placed over the door. This picture,
rendered still more hideous by the coat of dust and dirt which
covers it, represents a dead body in a state of decomposition,
with all those horrible details which are treated so complacently
by Spanish artists. A symbolical and funereal inscription, one of
those menacing biblical sentences, which warn human nothingness
in so terrible a manner, is written at the bottom of this
sepulchral painting, which seems a very singular one to select
for a refectory. I do not know whether all the stories of monkish
gluttony are true, but for my own part I should have but a very
delicate appetite in a dining-room decorated in this fashion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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