Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
We will not fatigue our readers with a description of our
monotonous route through a stony, flat, and dusty country, only
enlivened, at long intervals, with a few olive-trees, whose foliage
is diseased and of a bluish green; where nothing is seen but tawny,
haggard, mummified peasants, with scorched, rusty hats, short
breeches, and coarse gaiters of darkish cloth, carrying a tattered
jacket on their shoulders, and driving before them a mangy ass
whose coat is white with age, whose ears are enervated, and whose
back is pitiful to behold; and where you see at the entrance of the
villages nothing but half-naked children, as dark as mulattoes, and
who view you with wild and astonished looks as you pass by.
Dying of hunger, we arrived at Manzanares in the middle of the
night. The courier who preceded us, profiting by his right as
first comer and his acquaintance with the people of the hotel, had
exhausted all the provisions, which consisted, it is true, but of
three or four eggs and a piece of ham. We uttered the most piercing
and heart-rending cries, and declared that we would set fire to the
house and roast the landlady herself, if there were no other dish
forthcoming. This display of energy procured us, at about two in
the morning, some supper, to prepare which they had been obliged
to wake up half the town. We had a quarter of kid, eggs with
tomato-sauce, ham and goat's-milk cheese, with some pretty good
white table-wine. We all supped together in the yard by the light
of three or four brass lamps, very much like the funereal lamps of
antiquity. The flame of each lamp producing, through the caprices
of the wind, fantastic shades and lights, gave us the appearance
of so many lamiæ and ghouls tearing asunder pieces of disinterred
children: and that the repast might have a perfect appearance of
magic, a tall blind girl, guided by the noise, approached the
table, and began singing couplets to a plaintive and monotonous
air, like a vague sibylline incantation. On learning that we were
French, she improvised, in honour of us, some eulogical stanzas,
which we rewarded with a few reals.
Before getting into our conveyance, we went to take a turn in the
village; we were obliged to grope our way, it is true, but that
was better than remaining in the yard of the inn. We reached the
Market-place, not, however, without having stumbled over some one
sleeping in the open air. In the summer, the people generally
sleep in the street, some under their cloaks, and some beneath
mule-cloths, while others have a sack filled with chopped straw
(these are sybarites); and then again there are some who lie on the
bare bosom of their mother Cybele, with a stone for a pillow. The
peasants who had arrived in the night were asleep, pell-mell, in
the midst of curious vegetables and wild productions, or between
the legs of their mules and donkeys, where they were waiting for
daylight, which was soon to appear.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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