Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
It was in the _patio_ that we took our meals, read, and lived. We
used our room for hardly anything but to dress and sleep in. Were
it not for the _patio_, an architectural arrangement which reminds
you of the ancient Roman _cavædium_, the houses in Andalusia would
not be inhabitable. The sort of hall which precedes it is generally
paved with small pebble-stones of various colours, forming designs
in rough mosaic-work, now representing vases of flowers, now
soldiers and caltrops, or simply stating the time when the _patio_
was constructed.
From the top of our abode, which was surmounted by a kind of
_mirador_, we could perceive, above the summit of a hill standing
out boldly on the blue sky, and through groups of trees, the
massive towers of the Alhambra, clothed by the sun in deep red,
fire-like tints. The view was rendered complete by two large
cypresses placed in juxtaposition, and the dark points of which
rose into the sky above the walls of red. These cypresses are never
lost sight of: whether you are climbing the snow-streaked sides of
the Mulhacen, or wandering about the Vega or the Sierra de Elvira,
they are always to be perceived, dark and motionless in the mist
of the blue or golden vapour with which the roofs of the houses
appear, at a distance, to be enveloped.
Granada is built on three hills, at the end of the plain of the
Vega: the Vermilion Towers--thus named on account of their colour
(_Torres Bermejas_), and which are asserted to be of Roman or even
Phœnician origin--occupy the first and the least elevated of these
eminences; the Alhambra, which is in itself an entire city, covers
the second and highest hill with its square towers, connected
with one another by lofty walls and immense substructures, which
form an enclosure containing gardens, woods, houses, and squares;
the Albaycin is situated on the third hillock, which is separated
from the others by a deep ravine choked with vegetation and full
of cactuses, coloquintidas, pistachio-trees, pomegranate-trees,
rose-bays, and tufts of flowers, and at the bottom of which flows
the Darro, with the rapidity of an Alpine torrent. The Darro, which
has gold in its stream, traverses the city now beneath the open
sky, now under bridges so long that they rather merit the name of
vaults, and joins itself in the Vega, at a little distance from the
parade, to the Xenil which is contented with containing silver.
The course of the torrent through the city is called _Carrera del
Darro_, and a magnificent view is obtained from the balconies of
those houses which border it. The Darro wears away its shores
very much, and causes frequent slips of earth; there exists, in
consequence, an old couplet, sung by children, which alludes to
this mania for carrying everything away, and accounts for it in a
peculiar manner. The following are the lines in question:--
"Darro tiene prometido
El casarse con Xenil
Y le ha de llevar en dote
Plaza Nueva y Zacatin,"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account