Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The gardens called _Carmenes del Darro_, and of which such charming
descriptions are to be found in Spanish and Moorish poetry, are
situated on the banks of the _Carrera_, on the same side as the
fountain of _los Avellanos_.
The city is thus divided into four quarters: the Antequerula,
which occupies the brow of the hill, or rather of the mountain,
on which the Alhambra is situated; the Alhambra and its appendix
the Generalife; the Albaycin, formerly a vast fortress, but now
a ruined and depopulated quarter; and Granada proper, which
extends into the plain round the cathedral, and the place of the
_Vivarambla_, which forms a separate quarter.
Such is the topographical aspect of Granada, traversed in its
entire width by the Darro, bordered by the Xenil, which washes the
alameda (parade), and sheltered by the Sierra Neveda, which you
perceive from the corner of every street, and which seems so near,
in consequence of the transparency of the air, that you fancy you
can touch it with your hand from the balcony or the _mirador_ of
your house.
The general aspect of Granada greatly deceives the ideas you
may have formed. In spite of yourself--in spite of the numerous
deceptions you have already experienced--you cannot bring your
mind to believe that three or four hundred years, and streams
of matter-of-fact citizens have passed over the theatre of so
many romantic and chivalrous actions. You picture to yourself a
half-Moorish, half-Gothic city, where open-worked towers are mixed
with minarets, and where gables alternate with terraced roofs;
you expect to see houses sculptured and ornamented with coats of
arms and heroic devices, grotesque buildings, with their stories
overlapping one another, projecting joists, windows adorned with
Persian carpets and blue and white vases--in short, the reality
of an opera scene, representing some wonderful perspective of the
Middle Ages.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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