Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
In the middle of the court there is a large reservoir three or
four feet deep, in the form of a parallelogram, bordered by two
large beds of myrtles and shrubs, and terminated at each end by a
sort of gallery, with slender columns supporting Moorish arches
of very delicate workmanship. Fountains, the over-abundant water
of which is conducted from the basins to the reservoir through a
marble gutter, are placed under each gallery, and complete the
symmetry of the decorations. To the left are the archives, and the
chamber where, to the shame of the Granadians, is stowed away,
among all sorts of rubbish, the magnificent vase of the Alhambra,
a monument of inestimable rareness, nearly four feet in height,
covered with ornaments and inscriptions, and fitted in itself to
form the glory of a museum, but which Spanish heedlessness allows
to lie uncared-for in an ignoble hole. One of the wings which form
the handles was broken off a little time back. On this side also
are passages leading to an ancient mosque, converted into a church
under the protection of St. Mary of the Alhambra, at the time of
the conquest. To the right are the rooms of the attendants, where
the head of some dark Andalusian servantmaid, looking out of a
narrow Moorish casement, now and then produces a very pleasing
Oriental effect. At the bottom, above the ugly roof of round tiles,
which have replaced the gilt tiles and cedar-beams of the Arabian
roof, rises majestically the tower of Comares, the embattlements of
which boldly shoot forth their vermilion denticulations into the
beautifully limpid vault of heaven. This tower contains the Hall of
Ambassadors, and communicates with the _Patio de los Arrayanes_ by
a sort of antechamber called the _Barca_, on account of its form.
The antechamber of the Hall of Ambassadors is worthy of
its purpose; the nobleness of its arcades, the variety and
interweavings of its arabesques, the mosaic-work of its walls,
the delicacy of its stuccoed roof, furrowed like the stalactite
ceiling of a grotto, painted blue, green, and yellow, of which
there are still some traces left, form a whole of the most charming
originality and strangeness.
On each side of the door leading to the Hall of Ambassadors, in the
jamb itself of the arcade, and above the coating of varnished glass
which decorates the lower part of the walls, and which is divided
into triangles of glaring colours, are two white marble niches,
looking like little chapels, and sculptured in a most delicate
manner. It was here that the ancient Moors used to leave their
slippers before entering, as a mark of deference, just as we take
off our hat in places we respect.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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