Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
When you have passed through the gate, you enter a vast place
called the _Plaza de las Algives_, in the middle of which is a
well whose curb is surrounded by a sort of wooden shed covered
with esparto-work, where you can go, for a _cuarto_, and drink
large glasses of water as clear as a diamond, as cold as ice, and
of the most delicious taste. The towers of Quebrada, the Homenaga,
the Armeria, and of the Vela, whose bell announces the time at
which the water is distributed; and stone parapets on which you
can lean, in order to admire the wonderful view that stretches
itself before you, surround one side of the place; the other side
is occupied by the palace of Charles the Fifth, an immense monument
of the Renaissance which would be admired anywhere else, but which
is wished anywhere but here when you think that it covers a space
once belonging to a part of the Alhambra, that was pulled down
on purpose to make room for this heavy mass. This _alcazar_ was
designed, however, by Alonzo Berruguete: the trophies, bas-reliefs,
and medallions on its façade have been executed with patience
by a bold and spirited hand: the circular court with its marble
columns, where the bull-fights, doubtless, took place, is certainly
a magnificent piece of architecture, but _non erat hic locus_.
[Illustration: WELL DE LAS ALGIVES, ALHAMBRA.]
You enter the Alhambra by a corridor running through an angle of
the palace of Charles the Fifth, and after a few windings you
arrive at a large court indifferently known by the names of _Patio
de los Arrayanes_ (Court of Myrtles), of the _Alberca_ (of the
Reservoir), or of the _Mezouar_, an Arabian word signifying a bath
for women.
On coming from these obscure passages into this large space
inundated with light, you feel an effect similar to that produced
by a diorama. It appears to you that an enchanter's wand has
carried you to the East of four or five centuries back. Time,
which changes all things in its progress, has in no way modified
the aspect of these places, where the apparition of one of the old
Moorish sultans, and of Tarfe the Moor in his white cloak, would
not cause the least surprise.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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