Aridity and Desolation of the Country--First View of the Escurial-- Sombre appearance of the building--The Church--The blind Cicerone-- The Pantheon Pictures--Anecdote of Spanish Robbers 103 CHAPTER IX. EXCURSION TO TOLEDO. Illescas--The Puerta del Sol--Toledo--The Alcazar--The Cathedral-- The Gregorian and Mozarabic Ritual--Our Lady of Toledo--San Juan de los Reyes--The Synagogue--Galiana, Karl, and Bradamant--The Bath of Florinda--The Grotto of Hercules--The Cardinal's Hospital--Toledo Blades 113 CHAPTER X. MADRID TO GRANADA. Procession of the Corpus Christi at Madrid--Aranjuez--A Patio Ocaña and its Environs--Tembleque and its Garters--A Night at Manzanares-- Santa Cruz Knives--The Puerto de los Perros--Colony of Carolina--Baylen--Jaen, its Cathedral and its Majos--Granada--The Alameda--The Alhambra--The Generalife--The Albaycin--Life at Granada--The Gitanos--The Carthusian Convent--Santo Domingo-- Ascent of the Mulhacen 144 CHAPTER XI. FROM GRANADA TO MALAGA. The Robbers and Cosarios of Andalusia--Alhama--Malaga--Travelling Students--A Bull-Fight--Montes--The Theatre 208 CHAPTER XII. FROM MALAGA TO SEVILLE. Four-wheeled galera--Caratraca--The "Mayoral"--Ecija--The "Calle de los Caballeros"--La Carlotta--Cordova--The Archangel Raphael-- The Mosque--Caliph Abderama--The Guadalquiver--Road to Seville 236 CHAPTER XIII. SEVILLE. Seville--The Cristina--The Torre del Oro--Italica--The Cathedral-- The Giralda--The Alcazar--The Caridad and Don Juan de Marana 258 CHAPTER XIV. FROM CADIZ TO BARCELONA AND HOME. Cadiz--Visit to the brig "Le Voltigeur"--The Rateros--Jeres-- Bull-fights--The Steamer--Gibraltar--Carthagena--Valencia--The Lonja de Seda--The Convent de la Merced--The Valencians-- Barcelona--The Return to France 274 ILLUSTRATIONS. THE GATE OF VIVARAMBLA _Frontispiece._ THE BRIDGE OF IRUN _Vignette in Title._ BORDEAUX _p._ 6 PASS OF PANCORBO 25 CLOISTERS, BURGOS CATHEDRAL 30 PUERTA DE SANTA MARIA 41 SEVILLA THE PICADOR 66 LADIES ON THE PRADO 75 FOUNTAIN AT MADRID 80 MADRID 95 THE ESCURIAL 105 STREET IN TOLEDO 118 VEGA DE GRANADA 163