Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
You ascend by a double flight of steps to the doorway of the
church: it is surmounted by a white marble statue of St. Bruno,
of a rather handsome effect. The decorations of the church are
singular, and consist of plaster arabesques, truly wonderful by
the variety and richness of their subjects. It appears as if
the architect had been desirous of vying, in quite a different
style, with the lightness and complication of the lace-work of
the Alhambra. There is not a place as large as your hand, in this
immense structure, which is not filled with flowers, damask-work,
leaves, and guilloches: it would be enough to turn the head of any
one who wanted to take an exact sketch of it. The choir is lined
with porphyry and costly marble. A few mediocre pictures are hung
up here and there along the walls, and make you regret the space
they hide. The cemetery is near the church: according to the custom
of the Carthusian friars, no tomb, no cross, indicates the place
where the departed brothers sleep; but the cells surround the
cemetery, and each one is provided with a little garden. In a piece
of ground planted with trees, which, no doubt, formerly served
as a promenade for the friars, my attention was called to a kind
of fish-pond, with a sloping stone edge, in which were awkwardly
crawling three or four dozen tortoises, that basked in the sun
and appeared quite happy at being henceforth in no danger of the
cook's art. The laws of the Carthusian brethren forbade their ever
eating meat, and the tortoise is looked on as a fish by casuists.
These tortoises were destined to supply the friars' table. The
revolution, however, saved them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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