Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Monte Sagrado, which contains the grottoes of the martyrs who were
so miraculously discovered, offers nothing very interesting. It is
a convent with a rather ordinary-looking church, beneath which the
crypts are dug. These crypts have nothing about them capable of
producing any deep impression. They are composed of a complication
of small, straight, whitewashed corridors, from seven to eight
feet high. In recesses made for the purpose, altars, dressed with
more devotion than taste, have been raised. It is there that the
shrines and bones of the holy personages are locked up behind the
wire-work. I expected to see a subterraneous church, dark and
mysterious, nay, even dreadful-looking, with low pillars, and a
surbased roof, lighted by the uncertain reflection of a distant
lamp,--something, in fact, similar to the ancient catacombs, and
great was my surprise at the clean and tidy appearance of this
whitewashed crypt, lighted by ventholes like those of a cellar. We
somewhat superficial Catholics require something picturesque, in
order to get imbued with religious feeling. The devout man thinks
little about the effect of light and shade, or about the more or
less learned proportions of architecture; he knows, however, that,
beneath that altar of so mediocre a form, lie hidden the bones of
the saint who died for the sake of the faith which he professes,
and that suffices for him.
The Carthusian Convent, at present bereft of monks, like all other
convents in Spain, is an admirable edifice, and we cannot regret
too much that it has ever ceased to be used for its original
purpose. We have never been able to understand what harm could be
done by cenobites voluntarily cloistered in a prison, and passing
their lives in austerity and prayer, especially in a country like
Spain, where there is certainly no lack of ground.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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