Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The Convent of San Geronimo, now transformed into barracks,
contains a Gothic cloister with two arteries of arcades of rare
character and beauty. The capitals of the columns are ornamented
with foliage and fantastic animals of the most capricious nature
and charming workmanship. The church, at present profaned and
deserted, exhibits the peculiarity of having all its ornaments and
architectural reliefs painted in imitation on grey grounds, like
the roof of the Bourse, instead of being executed in reality: here
lies interred Gonzalvo of Cordova, surnamed the great captain. His
sword used to be preserved there, but it was lately taken away and
sold for a few _duras_, the value of the silver which ornamented
the handle. It is thus that many objects, valuable as works of art
or from associations, have disappeared without any other profit
to the thieves than the pleasure of doing wrong. It appears to
us that our revolution might be imitated in something else but
its stupid Vandalism. It is this sentiment we all experience on
visiting a tenantless convent, on beholding so many ruins and such
devastation, the utter loss of so many _chefs d'œuvre_ of every
kind, and the long work of centuries destroyed and swept away
in an instant. No one has the power to prejudge the future: I,
however, doubt if it will restore what the past had bequeathed us,
and which we destroy as if we possessed wherewithal to replace it.
In addition to this something might be put _on one side_, for the
globe is not so covered with monuments that it is necessary for
us to raise new buildings on the ruins of the old ones. With such
reflections was my mind filled, as I wandered, in the Antequerula,
through the old convent of San Domingo. The chapel was decorated
with a profusion of all sorts of gewgaws, baubles, and gilding. It
was one mass of wreathed columns, volutes, scroll-work, encrusted
work of various coloured breccia, glass mosaics, checker-work of
mother-of-pearl, and burgau, bevilled mirrors, suns surrounded by
rays, transparencies, and all the most preposterous, misshapen,
ugly, and strange embellishments that the depraved taste of the
eighteenth century and the horror of straight lines could invent.
The library, which has been preserved, is almost exclusively
composed of folios and quartos bound in white vellum, with the
titles written on them in black or red ink. They consist, for the
most part, of theological treatises, casuistical dissertations, and
other scholastic productions, possessing but little attraction for
the mere literary man. A collection of pictures has been formed
at the convent of San Domingo, composed of works from the various
monasteries that were either abolished or suffered to go to ruin,
but, with the exception of some few fine heads of ascetics, and a
few representations of martyrs which seem to have been painted by
the hangman himself, from the proficiency in the art of torturing
which they exhibit, there is nothing remarkably good, which proves
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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